Thursday Tips (4)

Here is a collection of the Thursday Tips (and others) which have been sent to the OSA mailing list. Many of these can be found under the Techniques section as well.

2008: November, December
2009: 1st Page, 2nd Page
2010: 1st page, 2nd page, 3rd page, 4th page
2011: 1st page, 2nd page, 3rd page
1st page

  • Homemade Flower soft. I found this, and it does work-fast easy & cheap. All you do is rub 2 pieces of a Styrofoam ball together to grate it, then you can use reinkers to color it any color you want-just mix in a couple of drops until you get the color intensity you want-let it dry-ready to use. I let mine dry overnight Keep scrolling down to find it.Bonnie in NH
  • Here is my tip for getting your image on the right spot with double-sided tape.When you have put the tape on a piece of card or image, just peel of a little bit of the tape.Then position it where you want it, if it is not put correctly you now can easely remove and reposition it.Looks oke? Then pull off the rest of the tape.Made a photo of it so you can see what I mean and how it works.

    I learned this at a workshop and use it every time now…. it’s handy :o)

    Groetjes / Greetings / Hugs
    Carla from the Netherlands

  • Hi Stampers,
    I was making some Shrink plastic wine glass charms the other day and I thought I would share some tips:Shrink plastic will shrink to 1/3 the original size, any holes you punch in the plastic will shrink too, for instance a 1/4″ punched hole will shrink down to about 1/16″ but a 1/8″ hole you punch will close completely when it is shrunk.

    Color the shrink plastic lightly before shrinking as the colors will become about 2-3 times more intense and darker when shrunk. I find alcohol inks and colored pencils work the best on translucent, but permanent markers are great on the clear plastic. Acrylic paint will puff and get bumpy when you shrink the plastic but if you want a rustic look it is great!

    The shrink plastic gets about 4 times thicker after it is shrunk which can leave you with white edges and a white back. A great way to color this is with a Krylon (or other brand gold/copper/silver leaf) pen, as a bonus your art will look like metal, maybe even cloisonne! No more cheesy plastic looking charms!

    Lastly if you are making buttons make sure they are for decoration only, they do not fair well in the wash. Oh and as you sort your recycling keep an eye open for #6 plastic as that is what shrink plastic is;)

    If you want to see my leaf wine glass charms they are here:

    Have a great day!

  • I picked this tip up from a book I recently read.
    If you are using exacto or craft knives and you want to keep them available without worrying about slashing yourself find a block of packing Styrofoam and embed the blade into the Styrofoam block when that knife is not in use. This also makes it easier to find amongst the jumble ( or at least my table is a jumble some of you I know are tidy and organized).
    Linda B.
  • Another use for Styrofoam blocks is to hold brads so that you can change their colour – push the brads into the foam, dab with dye ink pads, re-inkers, alcohol inks, markers. You can also use pigment inks to change the colours – just don’t put the embossing powder on the brad while it is in the foam – use tweezers to dip the brad into the powder and then heat set. Now you can just buy one colour of brads and change them to suit the project!Diane Young, Victoria, BC
    Empress of the Universe
  • Not original-but useful.Make your own glue dots by dropping drops of Aileen’s Tack it Over onto either parchment paper or the backing from a Xyron. You can make the dots any size you need. Let “dry” overnight in a safe place-hopefully away from anywhere that cats might roam!Bonnie in NH
  • Stamp dark inks on vellum and mount on card fronts with the stamped side down. Your image will be muted, yet visible. This image is a favorite from Stonehouse Stamps.Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)
  • recently took a class which used the Spellbinder Pendant dies. The
    tip the store owner had us follow, was to use wax paper between the
    card stock and the die, which allowed us to more easily remove the cut
    product. Any time someone forgot this in our class, they had a hard
    time releasing the cut work. But when we followed the tip, we had
    little trouble getting all the bits and pieces loose.Now she said it wasn’t needed for the simple shapes like oval but only
    needed for the complicated dies.

    T. Linda Sneed

  • Hi All,I took some of my supplies down to Oregon to introduce my step-daughter, grandson and his girlfriend to card-making (which they absolutely love and now are starting to gather their supplies and make cards). Anyway, the girlfriend is a glitter nut. She loved to glitter everything. But unfortunately she glittered and then decided to sponge part of her card, mixing glitter with the ink on the pad.I had different people tell me different things to try to do to get the glitter off the pad but yesterday I came up with a great idea. I don’t know about the rest of you but when I’m mounting my stamps and have those extra pieces of the mounting foam that I save to use as dimensionals, I keep them in a drawer. Anyway, I pulled one of those pieces out, took off the protection over they sticky and tapped the sticky all over my ink pad. WooHoo! all the glitter stuck to the sticky and came off my pad. Worked like a charm.Sincerely,Rli
  • Hi stampers,
    I had some computer images that I wanted to use on a polymer clay necklace I was making so I printed a sheet full of pictures (black and white) and had it photocopied at the library for 25 cents. I cut the images apart, made my clay pieces and firmly pressed the paper face down in the clay and baked it. After taking it out of the oven I peeled off the paper while it was hot and viola, I had computer images on clay. If you have a laser printer you don’t need a photocopy. You can use other heat sources to transfer the designs as well such as a hot dry iron or a woodburner with a transfer tip.Since I had some time to experiment I grabbed my clear Chartpak blending marker and a glossy ceramic tile and transferred a few designs on one to make a coaster. I then colored the design with Bic Markits and the markers did not erase my photocopy design like it does if I stamp with staz-on, bonus! Not all solvent based markers will transfer the photocopy designs, my clear Prismacolor marker did not work and I don’t have any Copics to try, goo gone did not work either but someone on this group said that Vodka would work!

    If you want to see my projects I made using this tutorial you can on my blog: the project isn’t Asian themed though so I didn’t want to attach it to the email;)

  • QUICK TIPWe all use the weirdest things for crafting and here is one that seems so logical to me, but others seem shocked so here goes one ( sort of 2)Shoe BoxesWhenever I use glitter or anything that might blow away I use the shoe box to work in. It keeps the stuff self contained in case i have to sneeze or forget what is there and breathe heavy. Hey It is also good for cathing punchies when you are doing a lot from the bottom up they have to drop somewhere, (MS’s have a tendency to fly)When I have to spray something or do something that can get extra messy, again the shoe box comes out great.

    For doing messy things that require closer hands on activity. the lid is perfect. I am talking like the alcohol ink polished stone technique, brayering a full card, gluing holeless beads, again glittering small things, applying adhesives to something all over, you get the idea, the lid is perfect. The craft sheet is good, but sometimes you need the edge to contain the goodies.

    Best of all, it can get tossed out when done ( recycled of course)

    Of course their original use is just as good, STORAGE of craft supplies, so not know knows how much you have.


  • Hi Everyone,Baby oil or mineral oil work well with stained glass techniques. I prefer to use mineral oil because it never turns rancid. Dollar stores have small bottles of mineral oil. A little goes a long way, so a small bottle will serve several projects. Resist the temptation to use vegetable oil or any cooking fat (Crisco, butter, margarine, canola oil) because all of these are food products and will spoil eventually.Stamp your images on lighter colored cardstock or text weight paper using dark pigment inks.* (Baking parchment from the grocer also works well.)Heat emboss with silver embossing powder. Silver EP will appear to be the lead in a stained glass window. Copper, bronze or gold EP can also give the effect you wish.Color the areas of the stamped images using felt markers, chalks, Perfect Pearls (mixed with gum arabic or white glue and water 50/50), watercolor pencils or any other medium that suits.

    Turn over the paper and apply the oil lightly with a dedicated paintbrush or the tip of your finger. A cotton ball also works, but it wastes a lot of oil.

    Continue to add drops of oil until the paper is saturated, but not drippy. LOL

    Allow the piece to “rest” face up for 15 minutes on a clean piece of scrap paper.

    If color has gotten on the embossing, reheat it with your heat tool and the embossing will shine again. (Tip from Carolyn Summers, Idaho.)

    The oil will set in 24-36 hours and not rub off or leave a residue.

    Attaching the oiled paper to a card front can be tricky since glues and tape may not hold. Use photo corners or make a cardstock frame. Strips can also be attached across the card front and the stained glass slid behind it so it is secure. Punch two holes at the top and add fibers or a length of ribbon so it can be used as a bookmark.

    *Choose images that have intricacies so they can be colored with a wide variety of hues.

    Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)

  • I like to edge things with glitter. I run a paintbrush around the edge with
    pva glue and sprinkle glitter. Now to stop it dropping everywhere or flaking
    off if you touch it, when it is dry, go over again with a brush and more pva
    glue. The glue dries clear but catches and holds all the top glitter in place.Anita Rayner 🙂
  • I just recently added my name to the RAK list and had also just joined the ATC RAK subgroup…so, what I found worked well for me was to sit down and address at least 20 envelopes for each group…and now they are on my desk and ready to go as soon as I make the card and/or ATC…easy, peasy…easier than going to the database each time and/or even pulling out a printed list. Hope this helps someone…Willow
  • I found that my Cuttlebug will emboss on clear plastic. So, rather than purchasing the plastic, I use pieces that items are wrapped in, such as the cuttlebug embossing folders and sizzix and any other company that encloses their items in a plastic sheet. I use regular kitchen scissors to cut out the plastic and then when I’m ready to use it, use my cutter to straighten out the edges and cut to whatever size I need. Don’t know if anyone else has submitted something like this, so I thought I’d give it a try.People will forget what you said,
    People will forget what you did,
    But people will never forget how you made them feel.Blessings, Sharon
  • Whenever I purchase brads, charms and other embellishments that come in the clear plastic packages with compartments I put the supplies away in my organizers then I save the packages. Look what you can use them for:When i make earrings as a gift and mail them i like to make a card and poke them right into it as part of the embellishment, I tape a piece of the packaging to the back so the earrings wont poke through the envelope in when mailed.They make great disposable palettes for acrylic paint and ink. Just squirt a bit of paint into each well and toss it away when you are done your project.How about a shaker box? Instead of paying big bucks for a plastic bubble to stick on your card or scrapbook page just fill a section of an plastic brad package with beads and glue it on!You can die cut (or easily hand cut) shapes from the flat pieces to make trendy acrylic accents, stamp on them with acrylic paint or staz-on or dab them with alcohol ink for a stunning effect! I even save the big pieces of plastic packaging from my kids toys to make clear albums with! (can anyone say “pack rat”?)

    I’m sure there are more ideas out there but that’s all I can come up with;)

  • Hi Everyone,Perfect Pearls and mica powders sometimes stay on our shelves, unused, because we lack the skill and knowledge to use them even though it is ever so simple to add the powders to our art.Gum Arabic*, white glue, PPA, PVA, Elmer’s glue, school glue, Diamond Glaze, Crystal Lacquer, Future (brand) liquid floor wax, shellac, glue stick or any other adhesive will work with mica powders.Micas can be applied easily by coating the areas to be highlighted with an adhesive and then adding a light dusting of the powder. Touch a dry paintbrush tip lightly into the powder, hold the bristles 1″ above the dampened area, then flick the powder off the brush with your fingernail. Gravity usually cooperates. Be sure your fans are turned off before attempting this!Mica powder can also be stirred into the adhesive first**, then painted into areas on your format. This technique is preferred because it offers more control of the medium. A chopstick or toothpick allows you to apply the mixture to tiny areas, just dip and dab. Q-tips are not recommended for this technique because cotton absorbs the glue and creates waste.

    Adding mica powder to the adhesive also allows more choices. Embossing powder can be added to the mixture and heat set after it is applied. Fine detail glitter can also be added. Experiment on scraps to discover your favorite mica technique.

    A combination of light and dark mica powders can be used to add depth to your art. Apply dark mica and allow it to dry completely. Next, apply a thin coat of a lighter color mica. The dark coat will enhance the lighter color and add dimension. Speed up the drying process with a hair dryer if you wish.

    *Gum Arabic is a powder, so add water. Start with 1/4 teaspoon water and 1/8 teaspoon gum Arabic. A little of each will go a long way. Use a clean mayonnaise-type jar lid or even the cap of a water bottle or a plastic milk carton top will work.

    **A little goes a long way. Start out with a very small amount. More can be added should you need it and there will be no waste.

    Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)

  • This is an oldie, but goodie – and it’s easie!Stamping on fun foam … that cheapie foam sheet from the $Store can be turned into a nice little embellie treasure.Simply choose a stamp – one that is not highly detailed, cut a piece of fun foam that will be just a little larger than your stamp.Using your heat gun, blast the piece of fun foam till it is really hot … and quickly press your stamp into it. Leave the stamp on till the foam cools – will only take seconds.Now trim around your stamped image and use a little rub-on metallic to give it some dimension. If I’m in a hurry, I’ll just dry brush the image with some acrylic craft paint. When I can get it, I like to use the black foam.

    Judy H

    This is for when you purchase sheets, full or half:

    I immediately put them into a page protector (the clear plastic pages with the opening on top, and that little sleeve that will hold a sheet).

    But now the dilemma what is on the sheet. Standing there with a mirror can drive you nuts.

    What to do.

    Go to the web site to see what is on the sheet Great idea

    But…… have you thought to print out the sheet image from the web site???

    It hit me like a light bulb. I can print out the whole sheet, put it in the paper protector, and know exactly what is on the page. Also you can write where you got it from.

    Well, this is my Thursday hint.


    Not a new tip but one I’ve had cause to reuse this last couple of weeks when
    gluing a lot of papers.

    When you get new telephone directories, don’t bin your old ones, save them
    for applying adhesive. Place paper or image on the page, apply adhesive and
    when finished, turn the page over – and so on until you’ve used up all the
    pages. You can make sure the edges are really well glued because it doesn’t
    matter how much mess you make on the page AND you’re not wasting precious
    paper to work on. It works great and you don’t have to worry about
    accidentally getting adhesive on your next piece if you turn the page over
    immediately because the excess glue sticks them together. It’s a great
    recycling tip! Some of those directories are really thick and will last
    ages ….


    Hi All,

    If you have those embossing folders from cricut or other companies where you put your card stock inside it and the two sides fold down over the card stock where you then run it through a machine – here’s a tip.

    If you rub your ink pad over both sides that go up against your paper, before adding the paper, you will not only have a dry-embossed image on your paper but another color in the pattern as well.

    A lady in my card group did that with white card stock and the embossing folder of snow flakes. She rubbed her blue ink pad over both sides and it really turned out nice.




    I don’t think there is such a thing as a “new” tip, so I’m sure mine is a repeat. I can’t remember what happened 15 minutes ago, let alone whether this tip was posted within the last year.So here goes:

    If you’re cutting with a Cricut or Sizzix steel rule dies, or any dies that don’t emboss, the finished cut out can look boring because it’s flat.

    Dry emboss your card stock with Cuttlebug or Sizzix folders (or anything, really) or texture plates, then cut with your dies. If cutting with a Cricut, cut your shapes first,then emboss. It adds a LOT to your cutout.

    Example: I used the Pagoda cartridge to cut some dragons. They were cut, but FLAT. So I added texture with the Cuttlebug Tiny Bubbles embossing folder.Now my dragons have “scales”. I’ve used the Tapestry, Script, D’Vine Swirls, Swiss dots and many other Cuttlebug folders to add texture to cardstock. The design doesn’t matter, but choose one that has the right scale for your cut out.

    I like to make card stock look like metal. Cut hinges or a frame from tan paper, for example. Emboss with a folder or texture plate, then apply VersaMark and gold, silver orcopper embossing powder and heat. Or cut shapes from tan paper, for example. Emboss with a folder or texture plate, distress with brown or rust ink applied with a sponge. If you want shine and dimension, finish with something like Diamond Glaze or Glossy Accents, or emboss with clear embossing powder.



    Hi Everyone,

    Look around your kitchen to see what items can be scanned and used to print background papers for holidays.

    The attached scan is of a heart pie crust cutter. The cutter is red plastic. Place the cutter face down on the scanner bed.
    Cover the cutter with any color cardstock, wrapping paper, or fabric. This scan used black cardstock.

    Scan the image 300dpi. Set the size to 5 1/2″ x 4 1/4″ for portrait orientation on an A2 card or scan it 4 1/4″ x 5 1/2″ for a landscape orientation background for an A2 card.

    You will find that scanning the right size allows your printer to print multiples without wasting cardstock or inks and the printed scan will be the perfect size for your card front.

    When more than one background is needed, set your page margins to 0 or +2-3 at the top, bottom, left, and right.

    Four A2 card fronts will fit on one piece of cardstock. Most inkjet printers and laser printers will adjust automatically from text weight to cardstock and back again without your need to do anything but load the tray with the right weight that you need for your project.

    Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)


    Hi Stampers!
    As you know I like to stretch my crafting dollar. One way I save money is by using what I already have, for instance I only have one border punch, It’s lovely and it was I gift. Instead of buying border punches I use my decorative scissors and hole punches to make fun and fancy borders. First trim the edge of your paper with the deco scissors, then use small hole punches to punch shapes in the scallops and bumps, you will have an infinite variety of edges that way and it won’t cost you a dine, lets put those old-school tools to use!

    Another way to stretch your crafting dollar is to alter your die cuts. A saw a woman in a Cricut group I belong to tell us how to turn an “&” (ampersand) into an awareness ribbon just by making 2 snips, clever! 3 circles can make a snowman or Micky mouse ears. you can adapt this technique to stickers too, flip a “u” upside down if you need an “n” and so forth. If you are a Cricut user and you only have the cartridge that came with your machine you can download the free version of Design Studio and run it in trial mode for free with the cartridge that came with your machine and you can weld those basic shapes to make thousands of different designs, all you need is an A/B USB cord to hook the Cricut to your computer and you can get that at the dollar store!

    Happy Crafting;)


    If you like buying paper packs then may this will work for you. usually there is a page that is a collage of all the various patterns and some matching pictures sort of set up in block and strips.

    I never knew what to use a piece of paper like that for until one day I was just messing around and i cut all the pieces apart, got a few coordinating stickles and enhanced all the pieces. grabbed some coordinating cardstock and made super quick cards using the pictures as my main image and the various strips as additional layers

  • Another dollar store item to stamp with is a pumice stone. It gives a nice fine grain background and the ones I got are about 2 in. x 4 in. making them an almost perfect size for ATCs.
    Linda B.
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  • Sponging colour on cards or images is awkward… I use the makeup sponges that you can find in grocery stores.. cheap at $2.00 for 8 little triangles and you can squeeze them into whatever shape you need..points or flat or round.. wonderful things! Use them in a dabbing action or swipe or whichever you need, they colour well and you can use one for each different colour. They also wash well.
  • Hope this helps someone
  • Regards.. Liz
  • ………………………………………….
  • Hi All,
  • This is just a small tip. As many of you are aware, I love to sponge things. There are so many different sponges out there to choose from that work differently from each other.
  • The kind I found best I found when I took a pottery class – we used the sponge on the clay. I have found those sponges at Michael’s – 3 in a pack – for a very low price. The sponges are round and kind of squat. What I do is cut them into quarters and use each quarter with different colors of ink and store them to use again with those colors.
  • If you use one sponge for – say – blue, always sponge the lightest blue first and the darkest blue last. That way you won’t mess up your ink pads.
  • And to sponge, there are ladies in my card group that all sponge differently and get different effects. One of them taps the sponge hard on her ink pad and immediately taps it onto her card. She winds up with a kind of darkish spot surrounded by lighter spots (not my style). I tap it on my ink pad, stamp off onto my typing paper surrounding my card and then kind of brush the card like you are trying to remove a hair from the card with the sponge or “brush” it off. I start light and add more color as I want it. Then I sponge the edge of the paper by brushing the sponge across the edge, front to back. If I want a little more color to come onto the front, then I tip the card a little to allow more of the sponge going onto the front than on the edge.
  • There are other ways of getting background color than sponging. You can stipple (use a paint brush that has straight-across bristles), roller (I like this one too) and I’m sure there are other methods.
  • The roller does the darkest coat.
  • So there’s my tip on sponging.
  • Sincerely,
  • Rli
  • ………………………………………………
  • Sorry if this tip is a repeat. I don’t recall seeing this one, but I can’t remember anything for more than five minutes.
  • I love Spellbinders dies (and other wafer-thin dies), especially the Nestabilities, and have tried many different ways to store them. I have two ways that I like:
  • 1. Use a vertical CD storage case. The vertical cases have clear plastic sleeves with a divider inside. Each sleeve hangs by little tabs on the edges like the Pendaflex folders are suspended in a file cabinet. There’s a place where you can write the name of the die in each sleeve. You can flip thru them the way you’d flip thru a drawer of file folders.
  • 2. Use photo pockets that are made to fit into 3-ring binders (these usually hold four photos, or eight if you put two back-to-back in each pocket). Place a piece of thin magnetic sheet inside each pocket. Nest a set of dies on each magnetic sheet. When you want to use your dies, just pull the magnetic piece out and all the die remain in place.
  • Speaking of wafer-thin dies, here’s another tip: If you use wafer thin dies a lot, you might want to look for a QuicKutz Revolution. This nifty little machine has a magnetized platform (comes with 4.5×4.5 platform, and you can buy a 12″ long one). I find it so much easier for cutting wafer-thin dies because the dies stay put on the platform–no slipping or sliding inside the sandwich. Lay the die on the platform, cutting edge up. Lay your paper on top, then the acrylic cutting mat and crank thru. You can also emboss with it using the QK acrylic embossing mat and a rubber embossing pad. I got my Revolution for $20, in the suitcase. The Epic 6 is the newer machine (I have not used it), so you should be able to find a really good deal on one.
  • I keep my Revolution on my table, next to my BIGkick.
  • ………………………………………
  • Happy Thursday, here’s my tip:
    When you want to add a bit of flair to a card why not shape the edges. You don’t need an expensive punch or die cutter to do this. Measure the edge of the card you want to shape (let’s say it is 6″), cut a scrap of paper 2″x6″ and fold in half (folded it is 2″x3″) draw a curvy or geometric shape on the folded piece and cut it out, open up the scrap and you have a custom edge template. Trace that on the edge of a card and trim. If the paper is nice you can add it as part of the design too or save it to use as a template again. This works out great when you decide you want a shaped edge when the card is almost done and you can fit it in the die cutter!
  • …………………………………….
  • This tip is for clear Christmas ornaments. For some reason the stores charge more for clear ornaments instead of colored ones. So one year I went to the Dollar store and bought boxes of colored glass ornaments. Some were broken the the majority were fine. When I got home I put a few BBS inside and some toilet bowl cleaner and swirled it around until the film dislodged and washed out. Bingo…really cheap clear glass ornaments.
    San Diego
  • This is a good idea, but I did it just a little differently. I used a toothpick and on the end, I used beeswax. When it gets a little hard, you just have to hold it in your hand for a minute to let your body warm it up. It works well with crystals, etc.
  • Doris
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  • I just wanted to mention a tip that might help with punches. If you have a small scrap you’re trying to punch something out of you can put a little skinny scrap on an edge sticking out and it will help you hold it in place to position your paper enough to punch it. There are so many beautiful ppunches out there now, it’s fun to create with them.
  • You can also layer your punch shapes and make other shapes. A clever one I learned was putting five oval punches together to make a lalyered pumpkin. Two in the back, two more slightly closer in the back and a centered one on the front. Just glue and you’ve got a pumpkin.
  • Hope this helps someone.
  • Linda Isham
  • ……………………………………
  • Hi Everyone,
  • Add depth and interest to backgrounds by using the edge of a piece of cereal box or any other cardboard. Stipple or sponge a background, then tap the edge of the cardboard to your ink pad and then tap the background several times with the inked cardboard before reinking it. Use a darker color ink than the background to add even more depth.
  • Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)
  • …………………………………
  • To give your die cuts more dimension, cut two or three, using the same die, then glue and stack them.
  • I cut some from cereal box cardboard, because it’s a little heavier, but still cuts well, glued/stacked three, and then painted with acrylic craft paint in metallics.
  • Using the craft paint, a stiff brush to dry brush, you can also “antique” your dies. The brown side of the cardboard takes paint extremely well.
  • Judy H.
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  • Here’s my tip to make you own -mini pick-it-up-tool.
  • How did I come to this…as usual…by accident :o)
  • I was using my punches and needed to pick up the punch outs from my worksheet….well my fingers again would not work with me and I remembered seeing a tool called quickpickerupper or something from quickutz and that bmade me old brain work ….took a cocktail-woodstick and put a glue-dot at the flat end, folded it a bit around it and there it was my own-pickitupper and it worked toooooooo!!!!
  • So a quick and easy tool, not expensive (everyone has cocktailsticks or toothpicks or bbq-sticks or a match in da house)
  • Try it out and let me know if it works for you too.

  • Groetjes / Greetings / Hugs
    Carla from the Netherlands
  • HI All,
  • This is a tip that makes a nice background. You all have been talking about watercolor inks. This is with the refills.
  • Take a plastic container like what Stampin’ Up! stamps come in or any clear plastic container that is long enough to hold a piece of card stock that you are going to use for background.
  • Take a piece of double-sided tape and tap it on your sweat shirt or any material to make it not so sticky. Attach it to the lid of the container and attach your paper to the lid of the container.
  • Put about 8 drops of ink in the bottom of the container of one color. You can do more than one color at a time or do them separately. Anyway, put some in the bottom of the container. Now add about 5 marbles.
  • Roll the marbles around a little in the ink drops and flip the container upside down so the marbles are on the paper. Roll them around that way – shaking and rolling – until you have all the ink on your card that you want. You will have swirls and circles and dots on your paper. If you do it one color at a time, you end up with separate colors. If you do two at a time – like blue and yellow – it will transfer blue, yellow and green to different areas since blue and yellow mixed makes green.
  • Just another novel way to make background paper.
  • Sincerely,
  • Rli
  • …………………………………
  • I just recently was reminded of the technique of edging your layers with a darker neutral colors to make them pop. The new idea to me was to use the little cat’s eye or dew drop ink pads to do so. Whenever I tried to use a big pad it would always end up in a mess, but the little ones give you just the right control.
    Hope this is helpful to someone!
    Laurie H.
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  • HI,
    Just to add to this:
    You can also create a palette with markers.
    Scribble color markers on a plastic sheet (reusable clam shells, or plastic tops from cottage cheese or yogurt cartons) in a row.
    Dip your wet brush into the scribbles & you have a palette of colors to paint with.
  • With the Stampin’ Up Pads, you can press the top into the ink pad & use the color ink on the plastic top as your color palette.
  • Create a palette from hard pastels (sticks).
    Scribble color from pastels onto a scrap piece of cardstock or paper.
    Dip your Q-tip, cotton ball, sponge wedge or cotton pom pom into it & use it as chalk pastels for painting & coloring.
  • Lynn
  • ………………………………………
  • Here are my holiday card tips:
    This Thanksgiving while the whole family is together dressed up why not snap a holiday photo to go in your Christmas cards. Ever since my kids were born I had my sister snap our family photo and it always comes out well because everyone is in a good mood and enjoying themselves, it is about the only time in the year I can get my husband to agree to have his photo taken too. Try getting everyone smiling and happy in a photo studio, plus this saves time and money, yay! This year I’ll be photographing my sister, her husband and brand new baby!
  • Make fun card candy: Gather up leftover die cuts, punch outs, ribbon scraps, charms and a few holiday stamps and spend a lovely afternoon layering them together with foam tape to make beautiful card embellishments like the pricey ones out in stores now. They will be special because you made them, you’ll be saving $$ and you will use up leftover supplies!
  • Enlist the family to make cards Assembly line style. This time of year you can by packs of 50 5″x7″ card bases with envelopes for $5 (the envelopes normally cost more than that!) Trim a bunch of pattern paper to 4 3/4″x6 3/4″, stamp and trim your focal images and sentiments and lay out all the pieces with a glue stick and let your family help assemble them!
  • Do you have friends that celebrate Christmas around the world? Chances are you do if you belong to this group 😉 Here is a website where the phrase “Merry Christmas” is translated in many languages:
  • Have a great day!
  • …………………………………
  • Hi Everyone,
  • Watercolor techniques can be daunting, but with a little knowledge and practice, one can be successful.
  • Squish a dye ink pad onto a plastic surface to transfer the ink.* A reusable plastic picnic plate or a scrap of transparency plastic work well.
  • Use a waterbrush or a dampened paint brush to color your art. Dip the brush into the ink, then color as you would with watercolor pencils.
  • For muted colors, use more water. For bright colors, use less water.
  • Blend colors by brushing the colors with a damp brush.
  • Watercolors are less brilliant once dry, so allow the ink to dry, then add highlights and accents with watercolor markers if needed.
  • *A drop or two of reinker from a bottle will work, too.
  • Happy stamping,
    Annette “:O)
  • ………………………………………..
  • Hi All,
  • This one builds on Mary’s tip about using something to clean her scissors. I have been using Goo Gone for a couple of years now and it does clean all the sticky stuff from the mounting foam but it takes a little work. Hubby saw me working with it and told me the best way he found to clean off scissors is with rubbing alcohol. He said it comes right off – no fuss – no muss.
  • Sincerely,
  • Rli
  • …………………………………………….
  • I sent a tip in a while back to use Eucalyptus oil to clean goo off scissors.
    well I came across another use for it.
  • when your acrylic blocks for stamping unmounteds, gets all gooey, then use the eucaplyptus oil to remove that.
    Just remember to use a baby wipe, to wipe off the oil residue otherwise your stamps won’t cling.
    I have tried it and it works perfectly.
  • Mary Waspe xx

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