1. Take any bold/solid stamp image & stamp onto cardstock using the Going Grey ink pad.
2. Color in & around the image in a light chalk color (ex: light pink for flowers & lime green for leaves, etc.) with a Q-tip or cotton ball.
3. Now go over gray lines again in a darker chalk color (ex: purple for flowers, evergreen for leaves, etc.).
4. Spray with sealer or even with hairspray to set the chalk.
(Next steps are optional)
5. Follow along the gray lines again, but with the glue pen this time.
6. Sprinkle with glitter over the glue & shake excess off. You may have to do steps 5 & 6 in sections so the glue doesn’t dry all the way. This technique gives your work a hand painted look.
SILVER ENCORE GUIDING
1. Stamp bold lined image using Silver Encore Ink.
2. Rub off selected parts of shimmer with pastel-loaded applicator.
Like the Gray Guiding effect where parts of the image shimmers
POPPIN PASTELS – CHALK RESIST – FAUX OIL PASTEL
1. Apply 2 – 3 different colors (that look good together) of light colored chalk with a cottonball (or sponge daubers) across cardstock.
2. Ink up an image with tinted or clear embossing ink (some use white pigment ink for a different look). Stamp image onto the cardstock.
3. Make sure that the ink dries onto the cardstock, when it’s no longer shiny (Natural’s cardstock works best).
4. Apply chalk colors onto the tinted image with Q-Tips or sponge daubers. The chalk will “darken” when it adheres to the ink.
5. Continue to add color, starting with the lightest going to the darkest until you are satisfied.
6. If you are using a 2-Step stamp, go over the image with the second step and repeat the process.
Variation of Poppin’ Pastels
1. Stamp several of the same images with clear embossing ink on white paper. Let dry.
2. Dip a cotton ball into one color of chalk & then lightly rub over & around the images.
3. This creates a great background.
4. Use a dye-base ink pad that matches the color of chalk used. Stamp the same image used before randomly in dye-based ink. (ex: Dragon Fly stamped in Eggplant Envy with Eggplant Envy chalked background)
FUN FOAM – ALMOST LEATHER (feels like leather after it’s heated)
Fun Foam is a product that is found in craft stores….it’s quite thin & comes in many different colors.
1. For best results use bold image stamps.
2. Cut out a piece that is larger than the image that you’ve chosen.
3. Heat up the piece of fun foam with a heat tool for about 20 seconds on each side. It will get quite hot & may curl.
4. Stamp your image into the heated foam & press hard (10 seconds). When you remove the stamp the image has made an impression in the foam. If you are not satisfied….reheat & start all over.
5. When you have the image you want….trim around it & adhere to a card or other craft project with mounting tape (double sided foam tape).
1. Cut a piece of fun foam to the same size as the block of wood on your stamp.
2. Using a stylus to hold the foam in place on your work surface, heat with your heat gun.
3. After edges curl a bit, stamp design (inked or uninked) into the foam. Let cool. (It feels like leather when cool.)
4. Trim and mount to project. (ex: Button Bear with black ink on brown foam . Then colored bow & button with markers.)
1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that work best are bold/solid.
2. For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty against the ink pad.
3. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker….& “tap” the side of the brush tip on the bold inked image. Repeat with other colors. Huff on the image & stamp. You now have a multicolored image (tie-dyed or
DIRTY STAMPING (VARIATION OF THUMPING)
1. Ink your stamp up with a light colored ink pad. The stamps that work best are bold/solid.
For the next step use 2-3 colors of markers that you think would look pretty against
the ink pad. Take the cap off the brush tip end of the marker….& “tap” the side of the brush tip on
the bold inked image. Repeat with other colors.
4. *Variation: Take an old watercolor paint brush & pounce over the colors to blend them. Huff on the image & stamp. You now have a multicolored image (tie-dyed or marbleized look).
Colorless blending marker with xylene
Black & white copy of original photo – photo can be either color or black & white.
1. Make a black & white copy of a photograph
2. Position the copy picture side down on the card. When practicing for the first time, it’s best to do the rubbing on plain piece of copy paper. Move to heavier cardstock after you’ve gained some experience.
3. Rub the backside of the photocopy with the blending marker. Note: You will need to go over it a few times to get the best transfer, & remember, everything comes out in reverse.
4. Without lifting the photocopy from the card, gently lift a corner, & peek underneath to see how the transfer is coming along. Sometimes the xylene in the pen will release fibers from the copy paper that look like little spiders. Brush these away with either a finger or the tip of the blender. More often than not they add an antique look to the finished transfer.
5. If everything looks as you want it, remove photocopy. If not, leave the copy in place, & repeat step 3. After you’re done, the copy is not usable again as a transfer, but you can cut it up & use it as a mask. This is especially helpful if you want to sponge or airbrush around it.
6. Color in the project with markers, colored pencils or airbrush. The paper you transferred onto will determine the best coloring agents. Note: This technique also transfers beautifully onto unfinished wooden boxes, so be sure to experiment with other surfaces, too. Color copies can be transferred as well.
PHOTO STAMPING (as per Suze Weinberg – The Art of Rubber Stamping)
Glossy or matte-finished photograph of clouds or water
Scenic rubber stamps
Dye-based, permanent or archival-quality ink pad in dark color(s) “Ancient Page Ink Pads”
Dye-based markers, sponges or an airbrush
Spray Sealant – optional
1. Stamp directly onto the photo surface & allow the ink to settle & dry. Pick stamps with scenic overtones to make the cloud pictures resemble real postcards. Note: Don’t be afraid to mask areas to make the overall design look realistic.
2. When the photo is processed at the lab it is coated with an emulsion. Don’t heat the photo surface with a heat gun in order to speed the drying time of the ink. The heat will cause the emulsion to bubble.
3. After the ink dries, use sponges, markers or an airbrush directly on the surface of the stamped photo to color.
4. Seal the color with a glossy spray sealant if desired.
There are many types of sponges:
Cosmetic/Facial Sponges * Porous Everyday Sponges (celluloid) * Natural Sponges * Bathtoy Sponges
There are different methods of use:
Cut & tear sponges for different texture * Use different amounts of pressure to get darker or lighter effects*
Use sponges either dry or slightly dampened with water * Tapping, smudging, smearing & circular motions are all ways to get different effects & textures *
Flicking edges of cardstock
1. Sponge around paper masks which you have cut or torn or stencils.
2. Sponge through paper doilies, lace or netting for a delicate Victorian look.
3. Sponge grass in several shades of green & applying different amounts of pressure.
4. Sponge around die-cuts to create a silhouette.
5. Make stencils using a different craft punches – sponge through them.
You can dip your sponges in ink pads or apply color with a marker on your sponge.
CONDENSED SPONGE CARDS
small condensed sponge * stamp pad reinkers * glossy white paper * small spray bottle of water * scratch paper * gloves optional
1. Apply ink to both sides of one small sponge
2. Spray lightly with water
3. Place card on larger backup scratch paper to catch excess ink
4. Pull the inked edge of the sponge across the card (be sure to start on the scratch paper) be sure to use one fluid motion or else you will get what I call a hic up. Be sure to begin and end off the paper.
5. Repeat step 4 as needed to achieve the desired look, or pattern. Mist lightly with water to keep the ink flowing smoothly.
Use rubber gloves to keep hands clean
Using one fluid motion will give you the best flow of color
sponges dry slowly , so take care in handling and storing them.
You can ink up the sponge & spritz the water on the sponge to remoisten the ink. You can also do
this with markers on the sponge & pull it across the paper, spritz to remoistened & do it again. You can also place the sponge, inked up, in one place on the cardstock & twist or swirl it.
COMPRESSED SPONGE (variation of condensed sponge technique)
Stampin’ Write Markers * Compressed sponge * Windex cleaner * Glossy card stock
1. Press many different colors of the Stampin’ Write Markers along one cut edge of the compressed sponge.
2. Lightly spritz colored edge of the sponge with a mixture of half water and half Windex.
3. Run edge of sponge over surface of the card to create multi-colored stripes, until the entire card is covered. Add any pre-stamped images if desired. Experiment with your sponge to produce different effects like squiggles and plaids.
RAINBOW SOOT CARDS
1. Take glossy cardstock & brayer a Kalidacolor rainbow ink across the card.
2. Light a candle & hold it very close to the wick to turn the card “black” with soot.
3. Once it’s covered in soot, I stamp an image (no ink) into the soot. This allows the rainbow colors to show through.
4. Spray seal your work.
Candle * Glossy Cardstock * Rubber Stamp
1. Light the candle & carefully move the glossy cardstock (glossy side towards flame) over the flame. The flame actually needs to touch the cardstock.
2. If you hold the cardstock at an angle you will get more coverage faster. Be especially careful near the edges & corners, they are most apt to catch fire.
3. When the cardstock is covered with soot to your satisfaction , stamp an uninked stamp onto it. Press firmly but do not wiggle.
4. Lift straight up.
5. Immediately spray card with a spray fixative. Hold the can 12″ – 14″ above the card…..sort of spraying away from the card. Once the stream of spray is coming out evenly move the nozzle toward your card….keeping a 12″ distance. If you don’t do this, you’ll get little polka dots form the pressure in the can pushing the soot around on the card.
Note: It’s very difficult to do this on a full size card. It’s recommended that you cover a piece of cardstock with soot, stamp, spray, let dry & then cut out the image & glue it onto another piece of cardstock.
PAPIER MACHE PAINTING & STAMPING
Assorted Acrylic Paints * Clear Acrylic Sealer Spray (matte &/or glossy) * Sponge Brushes * Heat Tool *Assorted Colors of Fabrico Ink Pads * Assorted
Markers * Watercolor Brush * Pastels * Embellishments * Glue
1. Spray seal the paper mache with a clear acrylic sealer spray. Let dry.
2. Cover entire surface with acrylic paint. Paint several (3-4) coats & let dry in between each coat. Let final coat dry.
3. Stamp images in Fabrico Real Black. Heat set with heat tool.
4. Take a lightly wet paint brush & dip it into the Fabrico ink pads to “paint in each color”. Heat set with heat tool. The colors that were painted in will seem faded.
5. Shade with markers – watercolor method. The Fabrico inks seem to help the markers go on without streaks & shading the markers make the colors more vibrant. You can also apply the marker directly to the painted Fabrico surface.
6. To bring out the images you can chalk around them…..blues or gray. Apply a little color of red pastel for cheek color.
7. Lightly spray seal the whole object & let dry.
8. Add embellishments. Hot glue bows or buttons for a quick & solid adhesion.
Patterned Tissue Paper * Freezer Paper (located near the wax paper at the store) * Iron * Envelope Template
Place the wrong side of the tissue paper to the waxed side of the freezer paper.iron together. The freezer paper fuses to the tissue paper. The paper is now sturdy enough to make an envelope out of it using the envelope templates.
Before placing tissue paper on to the freezer paper… wad it up creating wrinkles/texture and then flatten out
and iron onto the freezer paper. Adds another dimension to your paper/envelope.
Make enough of the tissue/freezer paper for gift wrap. It always makes a great impression when the gift wrap and envelope match. And it looks nice, too!
1 package Unflavored Gelatin * 1 Tbs. Cold Water * 3 Tbs. Boiling water * ½ tsp. White Corn Syrup or Sugar * ½ tsp. Lemon or Vanilla Extract
1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften for 5 minutes. Pour in the boiling water & mix until dissolved. Add corn syrup & extract & mix well.
2. Brush thin coating on envelope flap. Let dry.
To store put in closed container in the refrigerator. To use again microwave for 20 seconds on High. Check for brushability.
If you stamp the envelopes with the background stamps (lace or plaid) you can coordinate them with your cards. If you mask a rectangle in the front, like in the portfolio, you will have an area to write the mailing address. This would work well in a demo as well to sell the background stamps. Consider using background papers to make envelopes if you don’t feel like stamping them.
Simply use one of the envelope templates with a sheet of vellum!
CELLO BAG ENVELOPES
You can address the “back: of your card, instead of writing handstamped by. Put the card into a cello bag. Use the 6×8 cello bag. Cut 2″ above the card and 1/2″ angle to flap over and seal with tape. Also make sure your postage is on the outside of the bag not on the card.
Use one of the 8″ doilies to make beautiful dainty envelopes for hand-delivery.or place inside a cello envelope to mail.
BAGALOPE – ENVELOPE GIFT BAG – ENVELOPE TOTE
Standard Size Envelopes * Decorative Scissors * Hole Puncher * Rubber Stamps * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape
1: Seal the envelope closed.
2: Using decorative scissors, cut off one short side of the envelope.
3: Score along all three edges – equal on all three edges. Make crisp crease by folding the score line both ways.
4: Stamp and decorate now – allow inks, etc. to dry.
5: Open the cut edge.
6: Fold the scored edges inwards (valley folds – look at a grocery bag or other bag of that type to get an idea).
7: The bottom of the bag will form two points at bottom sides. Use Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape to tack down the two points & press to the bottom of bag.
8. You can make a handle to attach to the bag or you may punch a couple of holes on the front of the bag & string ribbon or raffia to form a bow to close the bag.
1. Fold gussets on 3 sides of an envelope (sturdier ones work the best).
2. Fold over the 2 sides & bottom – ½ ” to ¼” wide.
3. Fold back & forth for a strong, burnished crease.
4. While flat stamp your purse as desired.
5. Put your hand into the envelope & turn it into a purse by making the sides stand out as gussets & the bottom into a purse bottom.
6. Fold the bottom triangles under & glue or tape them down.
7. Fold the envelope flap over the top. Use a hold punch to make 2 half circles at the top of the purse. Thread a piece of ribbon through the holes & tie inside the purse.
8. After putting a small gift inside the purse you can seal the flap closed, or use a small piece of Velcro to close.
Apply adhesive only to the area that you wish to cover with flocking. Craft glue is recommended for the most durable adhesion.
For a thin layer of flocking, brush on a thin even layer of glue and sprinkle flocking. For a thick layer of flocking, use a thicker layer of glue and sprinkle a heavy layer of flocking.
Gently press the flocking into the adhesive and then sprinkle on a second layer of flocking.
Let the surface dry thoroughly before handling. When dry, excess flocking may be returned to the container. A little goes a long way.
Peel backing from sticker paper. Lay paper on work surface sticky side up. Pour flocking onto sticky side, then press flocking with fingertips for best coverage. Pour off excess..then stamp.
FOILED GIFT WRAP
1. Emboss an open image without a lot of detail (like balloons, hearts, flowers, jar, cauldron, Star of David, etc.) onto the front of a card. Use Black Colorbox & Clear Emboss Powder.
2. Stamp the same image onto plain foiled holiday gift wrap, simply using a dye-based ink. You can cut out the whole image or parts of it.depending on the look you want to go for. Cut on the “inside” line of the image.
3. Glue the foiled piece or pieces inside the embossed image on the card.
There are two variations to this technique..see which one you would like to try.
1. Put detergent into a bowl & toss ink on top of it.
2. Stick a straw in & blow bubbles onto your cardstock, letting the bubbles pop onto the card.
3. The cardstock does not have to be glossy..however that does work best.
1. Brayer a color onto glossy paper.
2. Take a small bottle of bubbles & blow bubbles in the air.
3. Try to “catch” the bubbles with your brayered cardstock.
4. It works best when you blow the bubbles immediately after you’ve brayered your background.
1. Make your own die cuts.
2. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your cardstock with a pencil..follow the line with a marker or metallic marker. Stamp around or inside your cookie cutter shape.
3. Trace the cookie cutter to the front of your card. Cut out the shape with a craft knife.to make a shaped window. Make a shaped note card, using the cookie cutter shape as your outline.
CLASSIC BLOCK STAMPING – SHADOW STAMPING
First of all shadow stamping is the name applied to a certain line of stamps by Hero Arts. They have various sizes of Shadow Stamps. Basically it’s a square or rectangular solid block of rubber (although unusual shapes can be found)..the edges are unique as they aren’t perfect..almost a torn look. You stamp in a soft muted color (such as dye pad or even an Encore metallic ink)…stamp off some of the excess on a scratch sheet of paper. Then stamp onto card. Some of you have already been doing something like this with our Two-Step stamp sets! You can do something like this with excess rubber that you’ve cut from your stamps too. From there, there are various techniques that can be done. The techniques below are from the Hero Arts website. Basically this is the classic coupling of solid block and open line images.
1. Consider the size to the shadow stamp that you have (or made). If you plan to stamp a smaller image inside the shadow the size must fit into the shadow..the shadow stamp “frames” your image. Stamp a few blocks together..then stamp a larger image that will fit on all the blocks.
2. To get different grades of color..use a 2nd or 3rd impression..the shadow gets increasingly lighter as you stamp. Stamp on scratch paper first & then stamp without reinking onto your card. Once your impression dries, it has a nice marbled and beautifully textured background quality with just a hint of the soft wash of Shadow Ink color.
3. You have now stamped a “shadow” onto your card. The next step is to add the image of your choice “inside” the shadow. Black ink works best to best emphasize your image.although any saturated color works fine. You will see the soft muted shadow subtly but elegantly emphasizes any image you stamp inside of it. Shadows make a great backdrop for highlighting any fine etching or bold stamped image.
Different Techniques for Shadow Stamping
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp. Ink second stamp design onto stamped shadow.
Ink edges only on the shadow stamp. Use edges of pad, Dauber Duos, or markers.
Shadow in a Shadow (Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink, but do not stamp. Take smaller uninked shadow and press into center of inked shadow stamp. Ink will be removed from
center area. Stamp onto paper. Area in middle will be lighter and slightly framed. Stamp design of your choice in center.
Monoprint (Another Kissing Method)
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take clean, uninked stamp and stamp onto inked area. Clean off stamp each time you take ink off. Stamp onto paper to get
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Stamp onto corrugated cardboard. Slightly turn stamp and stamp again. Grid design will be on your inked area. Stamp shadow onto paper and pattern will appear.
Stamp on Stamps
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take a smaller stamp and ink in a darker color. Randomly stamp onto first stamp. Stamp onto paper and pattern will appear.
Ink shadow with pigment ink. Take stylus or pencil and draw into inked area on stamp. Stamp onto paper and patterns you’ve drawn will appear.
Shadow, Shadow, Shadow
Ink first shadow and stamp. Ink smaller shadow and stamp diagonally. Ink third shadow and turn again. Ink stamp of your choice on top of all three.
(Block/Shadow Stamps can be found at: Hero Arts, Impress Rubber Stamps, Magenta, A Stamp in the Hand, Stampers Anonymous & Rubber Tree
Stamps. But remember..you can always make your own out of excess rubber!)
WET AND DRY EMBOSS
1. Stamp an outline stamp with the Basic Black ink pad & let dry completely.
2. Use a wet Q-tip and go around edge of the outline. Place on your mouse pad & trace outline with stylus.
3. Turn over and use the wet Q-tip again to moisten inside the outlined area. Use your stylus to “color” in the wet area (inside the outline). This makes the image “pop up” on the right side of your project.
4. Allow to dry. Color in with pastels &/or embellish with glitter.
DRY EMBOSSING – BLIND EMBOSSING – PAPER EMBOSSING – DEBOSSING
Materials: Lightbox * Stencil (plastic or brass) * Stylus Tool * Stencil Tape/Drafting Tape * Cardstock /Vellum Cardstock
1. Tape or place stencil in place over a lit lightbox. Position card over desired image on stencil. You’ll see the shape though your cardstock.
2. Use a stylus tool to trace around perimeter of stencil shape, creating raised or recessed effect around your stamped image. Pressing from the front of your card makes a recessed pattern. Pressing from the back makes a raised pattern.
You can also “deboss” a thin sheet of metal.
1. Sandwich a metal sheet between two identical stencils and line it up. Wrap tape around top and bottom edges of the stencil pair to hold layers. Press the stylus along the stencil pattern to “deboss” the design into your card. Use all or part of a stencil pattern to deboss.
2. You can also stamp on one side of the metal sheet (.36 gauge copper metal – found in a roll – may find in sheets?) with black ink. Use an image that is not extremely detailed.
Take a stylus & follow the pattern. On the reverse side you will have a raised image.
1. Cut small piece of metal to fit stamp.
2. Stamp with black ink on tissue paper or vellum.
3. Place metal on soft surface or rubber mat.
4. With fine point of stylus lightly trace image of stamp onto reverse side of metal. For a puffy embossed design lightly trace image in metal several times.
5. Emboss into puffy areas with eraser end of pencil or other smooth end like a Bic stick pen, you can push inside of stamped image.
6. Cut out design and apply to card or project with adhesive.
7. To add permanence (so it won’t be crushed) fill in the back of the design with plaster, wax or resin.
8. To add color or a patina, apply paint before mounting. After a few minutes, rub off dry and polish. Varnish is optional.
This technique can also be down with 4 to 5 layers of the thick of extra strength aluminum foil. You will have to secure each layer with an adhesive. Roll the cut edges to hide the layered cuts.
Also remember to work on a soft smooth surface as the metal will pick up any creases, dips or raised impressions.
FOIL STAMPING (variation of Metal Embossing)
Extra Strength Aluminum Foil or Disposable Pie Tin/Roasting Pan * Rubber Stamps *
If you are using extra strength aluminum foil.layer your foil, making 4-5 layers thick. You will have to secure each layer with a spray adhesive. Before stamping you must make sure the foil is smoothed out (use a credit card or scraper). Stamp your image on the “reverse” side of the foil (the non-shiny side)..use a dye-based ink.doesn’t matter what color. After stamping, place foil on a magazine or cushioned surface like a mouse pad.
On the same side that you stamp, use a stylus/embossing tool to follow your design lines. If you are using a word or greeting stamp, you will need to stamp it first onto thin paper, then flit it over & trace on the reverse/mirror image side..otherwise your words will read backwards. With the stylus you are pushing the design through to the front of the foil, you get the elegant look of raised embossing on a metallic surface. Finished foil pieces can be trimmed with decorative scissors & glued to fronts of cards. They look stunning with a window cut out of the front to fit the image
1. Color in images with permanent markers, outline a bold stamp & then fill in the background with little squiggles, lines, dashes, etc.
2. If you don’t have extra strength aluminum foil.you can use the bottom of a disposable pie tin or roasting pan.
You can find cork in craft stores, some stamp stores & even an automotive store!
1. Stamp your image with Basic Black Ink Pad (if using an outline image).
2. Color in with markers. Because the cork soaks up a lot of ink..you will have to blot the ink many times. Let dry.
3. You may cut around the image with decorative scissors or regular scissors.
4. Hot gluing the cork, when layering, is the best way to adhere the cork to your card.
SHAKER CARD/Foam Core
Piece of foam core cut to the size of card * Piece of card stock for back * Piece of decorative paper or one you’ve made for front of card * Piece of acetate
* Confetti or other for filling * Ribbon * Stamps * Glue * Craft Knife * Markers * Pencils for Coloring Images
1. Cut the foam core to the card size, then using a stamp positioner, stamp the outside image on it. Cut out the hole just a bit larger than the image size. (If you prefer you can just cut a simple shape as per your final outside decoration needs.)
2. Stamp the image on a decorative or plain piece of paper or cardstock that you have stamped. Carefully cut out the center just a bit smaller than the image itself. (This is for the outside of the card.)
3. Stamp the inside on the card stock so it will be seen through the hole in the foam core. (The easiest way to do that is to use a pencil & trace through the hole very lightly as a guide, then erase it after stamping.)
4. Glue the foam core to the card so the inside image will show through the hole & put in the confetti & glitter. Then glue a piece of acetate over it.
5. Glue the decorative piece over all of that & put a ribbon around the sides to hide the ugly edges of the foam core.
½ sheet card stock (folded) ¼ sheet card stock (cut slightly smaller) ¼ sheet acetate Confetti Stamps
1. You can make a shaker card using a stamp that has a large opening in it such as the center of a frame stamp. Or you can cut out the lower body part of the snowman in the “Let it Snow” set and stuff him full of glitter and fake snow.
2. Stamp and emboss image on the front of the (folded) ½ sheet of card stock. Also at this time emboss or stamp any other images to the front of the card.
3. With an craft knife, cut out the inside of the embossed image, so that you have a hole (opening)
4. Use monoadhesive to attach the acetate to the inside of the front of the card.
5. Use foam mounting tape to make a “barrier” around the acetate covered opening. Being careful as to not let the mounting tape show through to the front side. You need this barrier to keep the confetti, glitter or beads in.
6. Add beads, confetti or glitter. You can even add stamped images or shrink plastic, seeds and herbs. What you can add is limited to your imagination.
7. Before the next step, you can stamp or emboss the ¼ sheet of card stock with a greeting that would show through the window.
8. Now, peel off the backing to the mounting tape and attach your ¼ sheet of card stock.
Before attaching the ¼ sheet of card stock, make sure to look to see if it was upside down or not.
WATER CARD – SEAL A MEAL CARD
(Note: You will need an item called Seal-A-Meal or Eurosealer to do this project)
Bag Sealer * Plastic bag/rolls used for sealing liquids and …foods * water or other liquids such as shampoo, hair gel, etc. * mylar confetti or small trinkets
such as flat …beads, small shells, sand, etc. * cardstock or blank cards * utility knife * Monoadhesive or Double-Stick Tape * Rubber Stamps * Food Coloring (optional)
Step 1: Form the pouch (using your bag sealer and plastic) with three sealed sides (2″X3″ is a good size).
Step 2: Fill the pouch with a small amount of water or liquid – you only need about 1-2 tablespoons. Add your confetti or small trinkets to the pouch. For a touch of color, use food coloring unless you’re using colored hair gel!
Step 3: Carefully press the air out of the pouch and seal the remaining side, forming a fully enclosed, fairly flat pouch with the liquid & confetti completely sealed inside. Make sure you have no leaks!
Step 4: Make your card if necessary, fold your cardstock to form a card. Decorate your card however you wish with rubber stamps, etc.
Step 5: On the front of your card, cut out a small window with your utility knife. The size of the window should be smaller than the size of your pouch.
Step 6: Assemble the card and pouch: tape the edges of your sealed pouch to the inside of the card so that your pouch shows through the window that you cut in the front of the card. Use glue or double-stick tape to seal closed
the edges of your card. You are done! Shake your card to see the confetti float across the window in the card.
Note: If you intend to send this card through the mail, its best to enclose the card in a padded and protected mailer to avoid getting your card “popped” by the automatic letter handling machines. You want your recipient to receive an ultra cool water card, not a soggy mess!
1. Stamp images on sticker paper and color if needed with markers. Cut out images and place on top of brayered backgrounds.
2. Brayer on a piece of sticker paper, then stamp an image that is open (like a vase, Easter egg, balloon, etc.).cut out and layer.
This means using 1 color. Design a card that uses cardstock, ink pad & marker of the same color..using white or another neutral color to show contrast.
You may stamp an image in Basic Black, color image in with one color, flick edges with the same color & layer onto the same colored cardstock. Very simple.
Paper tole is an art technique in which part or all of an image is raised from the surface to give a 3 dimensional effect which enhances the natural shape of the image. For example, this technique can be used to emphasize the curved petals of a flower or the rounded curve of a balloon, apple or strawberry. Three basic types of paper tole techniques used with rubber stamping:
Simple Tole 1: A duplicate of an image is stamped on a different paper, colored and carefully cut out. This duplicate is then mounted on top of the original with foam mounts, causing it to be raised. One or more pieces of foam mount can be applied, depending on the height desired.
Simple Tole 2: Part of an image is carefully cut out and lifted from the surface of the card to give it “life.” For example, a butterfly wing or a few petals from a flower can be lifted out. A piece of matching or contrasting cardstock can be glued to the back of your work to fill the cut areas. A simple way to tole an entire large flower is to stamp and color a duplicate image, cut out the petals up to the center, fold or curl outward, and glue the center of the flower onto its original with rubber cement.
True Paper Tole: Each element of a duplicate image is cut out separately with an X-acto® knife, curved or curled, and reapplied directly over the original. This creates a sculptured, layered, three dimensional effect.
True Paper Tole
Rubber Stamps (Bold images work best) * Scissors * hot glue gun * Spoon * Pen * Paintbrush handle (You will use these for curling and curving pieces.)
1. Stamp out the desired image on the front of your card and color it.
2. Stamp out and color an identical image on a separate piece of cardstock.
3. Cut out all (or some) of the design elements from your duplicate image.
4. For designs with many pieces, number a copy of the original and your duplicate pieces to match. This will help you to find the right position for your pieces.
5. Color over the edge of your cut pieces to hide the white cut marks.
6. Curve or curl each individual piece around the edge of a spoon, the tip of a pen, the handle of a small paintbrush, or simply press it into the palm of your hand. Try to make the curves realistic for the design.
7. Apply hot glue to the underside of each curved piece. Make it as high as you wish to raise the image. The curve of the piece will hide the hot glue.
8. Attach each cut out piece to the corresponding place on the original stamped design on your card. A tweezers or toothpick will help you to position it. Begin working with the bottom or back layers first and build toward the front or top.
HOMEMADE RUBBER STAMP INK
Powdered Clothes Dye (any color)
1/4 Teaspoon Alcohol
5 Tablespoons Glycerin
Mix dye with alcohol to the consistency of thin cream. Add glycerin. Stir until well blended. This makes enough to replenish a stamp pad several times. Pour
ink over stamp pad or a foam-rubber pad that is fine grained. To make the stamp pad you will need foam rubber and a small plastic box with lid (such as a
travel soap box). Cut the foam rubber to fit inside the plastic box. Spread the ink evenly with a brush or a tongue depressor.
HOMEMADE TRANSFER INK
Use this ink to transfer designs printed with your computer printer or copy machine. You can transfer to things too small to fit into your printer or just won’t go into your printer, like fabric or big poster boards. Use your imagination. Try the cartoon section of you newspaper. Just remember whatever you transfer will be the reverse image, lettering will be printed in reverse.
Note: transfer ink works well with inkjet printers and copy machines but not at all with laser printers.
2 tablespoons of soap powder, Ivory Snow of soap bar scrapings. Do not use detergent
1/4 cup hot water
1 tablespoon turpentine
Combine the soap powder and the hot water in a small jar. Stir until dissolved. Add the turpentine. Remember don’t use the same tablespoon you use for cooking. Let the transfer ink cool before using or putting the lid on the jar.
To transfer a design. Start with a freshly printed design. Avoid using one that has been printed weeks or months prior to project. Use a paintbrush and brush the ink over the picture to be transferred. Wait 10 seconds. Place the object to be transferred to on top of the picture or you could do it in reverse and place the picture on top of the item to be transferred. Rub firmly with the back of a spoon. Lift a corner to check if the design has transferred when completely transferred lift off completely, stand back and admire.
Storage: You may store the transfer ink unrefrigerated forever! If the ink solidifies just bring it back to a liquid state by placing the jar in a warm pan of water. Shake well and you’re ready to use it again.
MARBLED TISSUE PAPER
Standard Tissue Paper * Dye Inks Refills * Spritz Bottles * Thinned White Glue * Fine Glitter * Small Glass Containers (baby food jars) * Droppers (like
for medicine) * Blow Dryer * Old Newspaper or Protective Covering
1. Crinkle tissue paper in a wadded ball then flatten out with your hands.
2. Dilute inks with water to your preference of shading in a spritzer bottle.
3. In small glass containers sprinkle glitter & add thinned white glue & water.
4. Spread newspaper or protective covering over the area you will be working on.
1. Lay out a sheet of tissue paper.
2. Spray your various colors of ink that you’d like on the paper.
3. Dry with a standard blow dryer whenever your paper gets too wet to handle.
4. Using a dropper, squirt the glitter/glue solution randomly on the paper.
5. Continue to dry the sheet completely & put aside as you move on to the next sheet.
6. Playing & experimenting with combinations of colors is what makes this so much fun.
When you’ve finished with your projects & your papers are dry, press lightly with an iron & fold or roll to store.
1. Stamp your image onto tissue paper (you can emboss too). Be sure to have something behind the tissue as ink will bleed through.
2. If using outline images..color images with markers or colored pencils. Careful as to not tear the delicate paper.
3. Lightly spray the tissue with a spray fixative..this will keep colors from bleeding. Tear out images, as if to do a collage or use one piece of tissue that will fit the glass object.
You can emboss an image first or you may apply a coat of white paint in a certain area on the slate for you to stamp on.
1. Sponge a little acrylic paint on the slate first. Slate can be a little slick this helps the ink & color to adhere.
2. You can stamp with Fabrico & heat set. Warning – the rock absorbs a lot of heat & stays hot for several minutes. Let it cool or you could burn yourself.
3. You can color in images with watercolor pencils or watered down acrylic paint.
4. Seal with a clear acrylic sealer spray.
Matte Cardstock * Clear Embossing Powder * Emboss Enamel * Variety of Embossing Powders * Embossing Pad or Pigment Ink
1. Lightly coat surface of desired cardstock with embossing ink. Tap gently with the embossing pad or rubbing surface. Take care not to get a thick coating
or it will “oil” up on you.
2. Emboss with clear powder. Repeat 2-4 times. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors & metallics, etc.
3. Take your image & ink it up in either the tinted embossing pad or to add pizzazz, ink up your image with a metallic pigment ink pad. Either of these will
act as a releasing agent to get your stamp out of the hot embossing enamel.
4. Set stamp aside & do final embossing layer then while it’s hot, embed the stamp into the enamel. Wait a minute, then pull to release. Your image should
be “embossed” into the enamel
1. Ink up image with metallic pigment ink & set aside.
2. Lay down layers of complimentary pigment ink colors & emboss with clear powder….repeat 3-4 times.
3. Stamp image into hot final layer of enamel.
Different Effects with Stampin’ Emboss Puff:
Pastels: You can apply the pastels to the image after it has been heated. The pastels adhere to the puffy image resulting in more dramatic colors.
Watercolors: You can watercolor over or around the Puff giving it a nice soft effect when you don’t want dramatic dark outlines.
Brayer: The sponge brayer works beautifully over the Puff. It works both dry and wet to create a lovely background, while the Puff resists color, remaining white and fluffy.
TOTAL EMBOSSED BACKGROUND
Ink the brayer with embossing ink and roll onto entire paper surface. You can use colored paper or brayer or sponge the paper in the color(s) you want. Sprinkle with clear or sprinkle embossing powder and heat. Try different powders for a variety of looks. For an elegant look, emboss the entire sheet with gold or another metallic powder. You can use this to layer, punch out shapes, cut strips..accents for collages.
Materials: Top Boss Clear Embossing Pad 2-3 Different Embossing Powders
1. Ink up your image with embossing pad.
2. Pour the first color of embossing powder on only part of the image & shake off excess. Repeat until you have covered the image with the different embossing powders that you have chosen. When adding a new embossing powder….it will not stick where there is already embossing powder.
3. Heat the entire image with heat tool. You now have a rainbow effect with different colored powders on the same images.
EMBOSSING ON METAL
Thin Sheets of Metal in Copper or Gold * Rubber Stamps * Embossing Ink * Gold or Copper Embossing Powder * Heat Tool*Old Pair of Scissors * Pencil * Gloves * Masking Tape * Silicone Adhesive
1. Wear gloves to protect hands from being cut on metal. Cover sharp edges of metal with masking tape.
2. Determine size of metal (for embellishing wood box)
3. Use pencil & ruler & lightly mark wrong side of metal.
4. Use scissors to cut metal to desired size & shape.
5. Wipe metal with soft cloth to remove dust & fingerprints.
6. Ink stamp with embossing ink & stamp image onto metal.
7. Sprinkle image with embossing powder.
8. Tap excess off and reserve. Use small paintbrush to brush away any unwanted powder from metal.
9. Use heat tool to melt embossing powder. Lay metal piece on table or hold with glove, as metal will become hot.
10. Adhere stamped metal with silicone adhesive (to wood box & brass tacks)
Make your own personalized lip prints. Use lipstick, lip gloss or balm, or even a TINY bit of pure glycerin and apply as you would lipstick, only very lightly, you don’t want the extra ‘grease’ to soak into your card/envy. Dust with any color EP and heat, there you have YOUR lip print on your card or envy. You might need to clean the outline up a tiny bit with a dry paintbrush. Practice a bit first.
Seal the terracotta tiles very lightly with a coat of acrylic spray sealer. Let dry.
Figure out a pattern on scratch paper before stamping on tile.
Stamp with pigment ink & sprinkle embossing powder. Tap off excess powder, use a paint brush to remove stray powder.
Melt powder with a heat tool. Embossing takes longer to melt on terracotta than it does on paper. Be careful as tile gets very hot.
This is for decorative purposes only.
STAMPIN’ EMBOSS ENAMEL – OVER EMBOSSING
This is a large grain, clear embossing powder that is versatile in use. Many different textures can be achieved. The large granules spread out as they are heated, creating a smooth, glassy, extra thick surface.
1. Apply a thin layer of clear embossing ink over the entire surface to be treated.
2. Pour enamel onto surface, insuring it’s completely covered, tap off the excess.
3. Melt with your heat tool. Immediately, while it’s still hot, pour more enamel on top & heat again.
4. You can do this process 2-3 times..depending on the texture you would like to have. A single layer of embossing enamel gives a bumpy texture, like water drops on glass. To build up texture and dimension, add a second coat in the same manner. A third coat produces a surface as smooth as glass.
1. Place the surface that you will be embossing inside a shoe box or something you have on hand. The powder flies everywhere, this way you’ll have more control. Or to apply a heavy coat of enamel, heat from beneath to prevent it from blowing away in the melting process.
2. Many people put there embossing powders in containers other than the jars that hold them. A place Tupperware container works nice. This way you can spoon or dip your work in the embossing powder. Eliminating the need to put it back in a small jar & getting powder all over the place.
CLEAR ON CLEAR EMBOSSING
Using clear or slightly tinted embossing pad, stamp your image on colored paper. Use clear embossing powder over the clear inked stamped image & heat emboss it. You now have a subtle, yet elegant looking stamped image that shows through the color of your paper. The clear outline of the embossed image with catch your eye against the colored background of the paper you have chosen.
White Vellum * Embossing Pad (white or other color)
1. Stamp image on vellum with embossing ink, emboss (allow heat source to warm up to maximum temperature as vellum is not designed to withstand such heat & will pucker/bubble/scorch rapidly) quickly.
2. Color the design from behind for a soft subtle stained glass look with markers or colored pencils. Mop up extra ink & let dry. You can color the image on top of the vellum for a bright vibrant look too.
DOUBLE OR TRIPLE EMBOSSING (using regular clear embossing powder)
Color in design that has already been heat embossed (markers, colored pencils, pastels). Brush or sponge clear embossing ink from the pad onto the color areas of the design. Pour on clear embossing powder & heat. You have now double embossed the stamped image.
Rub clear or tinted embossing ink directly on the paper, pour powder, tap off, heat & repeat 5-7 times.
After your layers are built up, take the stamp of your choice & ink with pigment ink, color of your choice, set inked stamp aside.
Heat embossed layers until good & melted. Quickly & firmly press inked stamp into the melted goo. Hold there until melted area cools. Gently pull your stamp out.
Stamp a bold image stamp in pigment ink & emboss in color of your choice.
Rub clear embossing ink over image. Take a pinch of various colors of embossing powders & sprinkle here & there over image. Tap off, & heat. Don’t worry about going out of the lines in your image. Do this until the desired colored effect is reached. Then finish off with a layer or two of clear powder. Cut out image & mount with foam tape to card.
Stamp image(s) in clear ink & emboss in clear powder.
Rub various colored ink pads over the entire piece of paper & emboss with clear powder.
Finish with one or tow layers of clear powder using clear ink.
Brayering is a technique where you use a rubber, acrylic or foam snap – in roller to apply color, usually for backgrounds. You can use ink pads or markers to color your brayer. Using an ink pad, roll your brayer to thoroughly cover it with color. Roll the brayer over paper. Note: If you are applying ink over glossy paper, make sure you are using dye-ink, not pigment ink. If you use pigment ink, the ink will never dry on glossy paper unless you emboss it.
Brayers & Markers
You can use markers on the brayers to create fantastic backgrounds. Using a marker, apply ink directly onto the brayer. You can draw stripes, dots, zig-zags, or whatever you’re in the mood for. Repeat the design using different color markers. When you are done creating the design on the brayer, roll the brayer onto paper. The design will transfer to the paper. Use glossy card stock for the brightest colors. Use matte paper for a softer look.
Brayering a Rainbow Background
Ink up with the rubber snap-in-brayer on a Kaleidacolor rainbow pad. Roll the brayer onto glossy cardstock for best results. Roll back & forth for complete coverage. This will be the basis for other techniques found on this list.
Brayer: Repeating An Image – Reverse Image
For a background, ink up a stamp such as a cloud, tree, or flower. Roll your brayer over the stamp 2-3 times before reinking. Repeat this process to ink up your brayer. Roll over cardstock for a subtle background. This is great for landscapes and florals.
Brayer A Honeycomb Background
1. Ink up your rubber brayer in More Mustard ink & roll over a piece of bubble wrap.
Brayer/ Rubber Background
1. Place rubber around an acrylic brayer….bands in different widths will give you different looks.