Instruction for “Shaving Cream” Background
1. Fill the bottom of a container (I used plastic) with a layer of shaving cream (cheap 99 cent stuff) and spread it out with a spatula.
2. Take a couple of coordinating colors of reinkers and put drops in a random pattern all over the shaving cream.
3. Take something about the size of a marker to swirl the shaving cream around to mix it up a bit.
4. Now, with a piece of US card stock (card front size) press it into the shaving cream from the center out.
5. Remove the CS and scrape off the extra shaving cream with a spatula. I even dried off the extra bits with a dark colored towel OR a paper towel will probably work okay.
6. You have your awesome background!! You can repeat until you don’t like the design you get.
The look comes out to be a marble type. It would be a background. You need glossy paper, gold encore refill, bliss blue refill (your choice on color), alcohol, cotton balls and heat gun.
1 – randomly put tiny dabs onto glossy paper (too much will make it look too gold)
2 – pour alcohol into a little dish or lid
3 – dab the cotton ball into the alcohol
4 – drip a few drops of color refill onto the alcohol soaked cotton ball
5 – dab this all over the glossy paper (I didn’t rub so I don’t know if the rubbing works)
6 – you should have a color all over your glossy
7 – heat set and your background is done.
Stamp image in Black on top or emboss in gold–Stipple butterfly looks great!
Polished stone #2 (sometimes called marbling)…
1-spray glossy cardstock with fine mist alcohol (rubbing or de-natured)
2-saturate a small piece of felt with alcohol
3-put a few drops of dye-based re-inker onto wet felt and dot on paper
4-repeat that process with one other color
5-with another piece of saturated felt I take a gold or silver (or any UM re-inker) re-inker and squeeze out a thin line on my felt. I then dot this in a few places on the paper.
6-when I am done with that I spray the whole piece of c.s. with the fine mist alcohol again so that the re-inkers move around and the metallic pigment starts to look like marble “veins”.
7-I let it dry for about 30 seconds and put clear embossing powder over the whole thing and where ever the EP sticks to tells that that is where it needs to be set. So I emboss it and it is ready to go. If you don’t emboss then the pigment re-inker will never dry on the glossy c.s.
Here are several things you can do:
1) Use as an embossing pad, just like you would the Top Boss.
2) Poppin’ Pastels: Stamp w/VersaMark (VM) then use a cotton ball or Sponge Dauber (I prefer cotton ball) to rub pastels over all the CS (or just where you have stamped). The colors will stick where you have stamped & will “pop” out. To do 2-Step stampin’, let step 1 dry completely (use heat gun, if desired) before doing step 2.
3) Reverse Pastels: Using Pastels, rub color onto black or dark CS. Ink stamp w/VM & stamp onto CS. The pastels will stick to the wet stamp & the CS color will show through. Be sure to clean stamp before reinking!!
4) Resist: Using glossy CS, stamp image using VM pad. Ink brayer & brayer over stamped CS. The color will not stick to the VM. Also works on matte finish, but looks better on glossy.
5) WaterMark: When you stamp on colored CS, the CS becomes darker where you stamped – perfect for making backgrounds.
6) Embossing w/our 48 Stampin’ Pads: Ink your stamp w/VM, then ink w/a Stampin’ Pad. Stamp. Use clear EP. Heat. Now you can emboss & be perfectly coordinated w/our markers, CS & Stampin’ Pads. Be certain to clean stamp before reinking on VM pad or you will have color on your VM pad.
POPPIN’ PASTELS – There are a couple of ways to accomplish this effect on light colored card stocks. 1) Apply chalk to the area to be stamped, stamp with VersaMark, then rub gently with a clean cotton ball (or you can get a more dramatic effect by adding chalk to the cotton ball or dauber). 2) Stamp first then chalk gently over the stamped area and watch the image “magically” appear.
REVERSE PASTELS – This time you use brightly colored chalk to cover dark colored card stock (Basic Black, Night of Navy, Close to Cocoa, Old Olive etc.) and then stamp over the chalked area. The ink will pull out the color of the paper from beneath the chalk.
SHADOWING – This is a technique that I like to use with Kaleidacolor pads and word stamps but you can use it for anything really. Just stamp your image using a colored ink, clean the stamp and re-ink with VersaMark. Try to stamp directly over your first image. Because you will seldom be exact you will make a shadow that gives the initial image a 3-D effect. You can even take it a step further and emboss with a transparent powder like Pearl or Iridescent Ice.
BRAYER RESIST – This technique can be done with Gold Encore Pad or VersaMark. Stamp image(s) onto Glossy White c/s using one of the above inks. Gently wipe away the ink using a lotion-free tissue and small circular motion. Ink up your brayer and roll it over the paper. Wherever the VersaMark ink was stamped, the paper will resist the colored ink from your brayer.
What to Do with a VersaMark Pad
VersaMark & 2 Step Stampin
Stamp the same image first w/ VersaMark & then with metallic ink (Encore). Just shift the image a little bit when stamping the metallic ink. It gives it a shadowed look. Looks great on baroque burgundy and forest foliage!
Embossing on Glass with VersaMark
Using the embossing buddy first, then using the VersaMark to stamp the image on a glass container, then emboss with detail gold or silver. Fill it with candy and tie a ribbon on it.
Water Mark Effect for Backgrounds
It always looks like you have the coordinating color for your paper for backgrounds. It’s like having 49 pads in one (our 48 colors and a clear emboss.) It works great on dark card stock -use it to stamp sayings on the inside of cards – that way you don’t have to always use lighter card stock. You can also use clear embossing powder over it on colored cardstock for a really elegant effect.
Make sure you’re using glossy cardstock. Let dry about 20 minutes. Brayer over the image you’ve stamped with the VersaMark, until the image you stamped with VersaMark “Pops” but. You can then stamp any message or design with Basic Black over it. This would be a great look on postcards.
Discreet Journaling lines
Although the VersaMark ink is sticky when applied, it dries like regular ink and loses the stickiness. It is Acid-free and safe for scrapbook pages. It works perfectly on all of our colored cardstock.
BLENDER PEN TECHNIQUES
The blender pens make floating or blending color easier. It enables you to blend several hues together, giving more variation with mediums. You can achieve this without using as many colors, but still getting depth and variation in color. It works with all waterbased markers, colored pencils, chalks, dye pads and pigment pads (cat eye, etc).
BLENDING TECHNIQUES ON EMBOSSED IMAGES
1. With the tip of your waterbased markers, lay a hint of color on the actual embossed line of an image. This color is now sitting on the surface of the embossed line. The embossed lines serve as a palette, making it easier to move the color, thus eliminating a hard line created by the marker. Working in a circular motion and in small areas, use the Blender pen to pull out the marker color into the open area of the design. When this process is completed a light application of color will appear on the image. To prevent the color from appearing too washed out, continue to add more color using the marker and the blender until the desired depth of the color is achieved.
2. Start with lighter colors and then gradually add darker colors.
3. Limit the colors to be used. Three basic colors differing in intensity, plus variations in value, will give life and interest to a stamped image.
HELPFUL BLENDING TIPS
1. Place several shorts strokes of Water based marker color onto a white Styrofoam plastic plate/palette. Using the blender pen, pick up the color and apply it to the stamped image. 2. When working with an intense color, take the blender right to the tip of the marker to lighten.
2. Apply the blender to the stamped image first working in small areas at a time. This preps the area and allows one to apply various marker colors to blend directly onto the card.
3. Before changing colors, wipe the blender clean on a scrap piece of paper. Be careful not to pick up too much color. If there is too much, simply wipe the blender tip on a scrap piece of paper before coloring the image.
4. When working an intense color, to lighten that color, touch the tip of the marker to the tip of the blender. By touching the tip of the blender with the tip of the marker, the marker color that has transferred to the blender tip will be lighter in value.
5. For a realistic blended look, layer color on top of color. For ex: Start with marker color (Lavender Lace #6930-62 and add Orchid Opulence #6920-42) or blend the colors on a palette, then apply to the image.
6. When using WATERCOLOR PENCILS, take each color you are going to use and make a palette by scribbling a little color on a separate piece of paper with all the colors, then take the blender pen and pick up the color and apply to the image.
7. When using CHALKS, you can apply a little to the area you are coloring, or use an applicator and take the blender tip to it to pick up the color, then apply to the image. When you are done there is no fixative needed (hair spray), because the blender pen fixes it when it is done.
8. When the blender becomes dry, simply pull the end cap off and add several drops of Dove Blending fluid. Or, make your own by following the recipe below.
In a one ounce dropper bottle add: 1/3 part Glycerin 2/3 part Distilled Water 1/4 tsp alcohol
Carefully remove either end of your marker with pliers and a light twisting motion. Add a few drops of the liquid to the marker. (More is not better here. Too much liquid will result in a runny mess) Replace the tip. Lay marker on its side overnight. Marker should be reinked the following day. Or, there is a product for refilling called “Acry-Blend” that is made by Delta/Shiva. (runs about $1.59 for a 2 oz bottle).
9. When using WATERCOLOR PAINTS, take the blender pen directly to the color and pick up the color and start coloring your image.
When blending colors use water based markers (SU!® markers are waterbased), colored pencils, chalks, dye pads (SU!® pads are waterbased), pigment pads. Don’t use Glossy clay coated paper such as King James, or Kromekote paper because it won’t work.
Rubber Stamp Art with Paper Clay®
– Creative Paperclay®
– Rubber Stamps from STAMPIN’ UP!®
– Color Box® stamp ink (non-watercolor ink not recommended)
– Wax paper or plastic sandwich bag
– Scissors, cookie cutter or Exacto® knife
– Acrylic paints, paintbrush or Fabrico® markers
– Spray Lacquer
1. Flatten Paperclay® between 2 sheets of wax paper or plastic sandwich bag with wooden back of large rubber stamp until it is about ¼” thick. (or use dowel to flatten)
2. Load stamp with pigment ink and gently stamp on Paperclay®.
3. Cut the stamped image out of the Paperclay® with scissors, cookie cutter or knife.
4. Let pieces dry a day or so or put them in the oven for about 40 minutes at 250°. Be sure to turn them over after they’re half dry so both sides dry evenly.
5. Paint or color in as desired.
6. After paint dries, spray with lacquer.
Variations and tips
• To make button covers or pins, glue the hardware on the back of the stamped Paperclay® pieces after the lacquer has dried.
• Jewelry findings, beads, etc. can be pressed into Paperclay® while it’s still moist and will generally hold after the Paperclay® dries.
• To create a reverse image, stamp firmly into Paperclay® without using ink.
• Let the Paperclay® dry and lightly sponge on paint.
• Watercolor stamp ink will tend to run after stamping in moist Paperclay® and leave a blurry image.
TIPS and HINTS
• Working surface – place plastic wrap (garbage bags work well) over your work surface to prevent sticking. If you’re working on a waterproof surface moisten the area beneath the plastic to anchor it to the table. Waxed paper can also be used, but it doesn’t hold up as well. You may also want to keep a small container of water on hand for thinning and smoothing Paperclay®.
• Rolling it out – Put the Paperclay® on one end of the plastic wrap. Fold the other end of the plastic wrap over to cover the clay. Then use a rolling pin to flatten.
Rubber Stamp Art with Paper Clay® (pg. 2)
• Imprinting – After rolling Paperclay® out remove the top layer of the plastic and lay lace or any other texture fabric directly on top of the clay. (Try using the Lace Background Stamp).
• Covering Objects – To cover or embellish an object with Paperclay® wet it with a small amount of water before applying the Paperclay®. It sticks well to moist surfaces, but you can use white glue if necessary.
• Using Molds – The method used to release Paperclay® from molds depends on the type of mold used. When using plastic molds, there are several methods for release.
Leave Paperclay® in mold overnight, it will dry and shrink slightly so it will come out of the mold easily the next day.
Cover the mold with a very thin coat of liquid soap.
Sprinkle talcum powder in the mold
Spray with mold release
Cover the mold with a piece of nylon and then press in the Paperclay®
• Drying Paperclay® – Small items will generally dry in a day or so depending on the room temp and humidity. Larger projects may take a few days. You can put your object in a 250° oven for 30 minutes until dry (unpainted object)
• Sanding, Carving, etc – After Paperclay® dries it can be sanded and carved like wood. You can also build onto a completely dry Paperclay® object by applying fresh clay.
• Painting – Once Paperclay® is dried it can be painted with any type of paint. After painting, spray with clear acrylic spray sealer, if desired.
• Paperclay® may also be colored by kneading water based paint into it before shaping.
• Storage – After you have opened a package keep the unused portion in an air tight bag. If it should happen to dry out slightly while you’re working or it’s in the bag simply knead in a few drops of water to restore it’s pliability.
Looking for something special?
TRADITIONAL – SOLID STAMPING
1. Press the stamp on the ink pad to ink the rubber image.
2. Stamp on the paper, pressing firmly and evenly, being careful not to rock or slide. With many different colors of ink pads, one stamp can go a long way.
1. Ink larger, bolder stamp with lighter color. Stamp image.
2. Ink smaller, detailed stamp in darker color & stamp image over the first image. This technique creates beautiful, easy stamping in seconds.
1. Ink up outline image in a solid color
2. Color in design with markers, colored pencils, chalks, or watercolors.
1. Using markers, apply ink directly to the stamp.
2. Breathe (huff) on stamp to remoisten ink, then stamp on paper. Markers allow you to create a personalized, multicolored image.
1. Stamp image onto card. On a piece of scratch paper, stamp again & cut out the image.
2. Lay the scratch paper image over the card image. Stamp the next image over the scratch paper image. After pulling the scratch paper image away, you will have two layered, interacting images.
1. Markers make it possible to omit parts of the stamp image. With a clean stamp, color only the part of the stamp that you want to show.
2. Stamp on paper. The technique makes your stamp more versatile.
RAINBOW INK PADS
1. Rainbow pads are multicolored stamp pads. By changing the position of the stamp on the pad, multiple rainbow colors can be created using one pad.
2. When using a small stamp image, you can get five individual colors using only one pad.
1. Take a Kleenex tissue & wad it up at one end & leave enough for you to hold at the other end.
2. Using a Kaleidacolor ink pad, take a wad of Kleenex tissue & stamp it on the pad…. covering at least 2-3 colors.
3. Then take inked Kleenex tissue & stamp onto light colored cardstock.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 until entire surface is covered.
5. This gives a great tie-dyed look. You can use a single color pad &/or put another color on top of that. This allows for versatility.
STAMPIN’ AROUND WHEELS
Insert the ink cartridge into the handle, then snap in the wheel. Remove the lid of the cartridge (cartridge will slide up to fit snugly against wheel.) Ink the wheel on scratch paper first for even distribution of the ink. Replace the cartridge lid when finished.
With even pressure, roll the wheel across the paper. Create fun, continuous images in seconds!
This is a technique that gives you just a hint of color to a stamped design.
1. Stamp a design onto cardstock. Using a Dauber-Duo, add touches of color to elements in the image.
Be creative & see where you add color & how much.
2. You can use a Dauber-Duo to flick the edges of cards for a “framed” look.
1. Ink up a background stamp….making sure that it is inked up well. Take another stamp, a bold/solid stamp, place it on top of the background stamp….effectively using the background stamp as the ink pad. (ex: Ink up your Antique Cracking background stamp. Then take the big birdhouse stamp & place it down on the background stamp. Your birdhouse is now inked with the pattern of the background stamp. Huff on this if this process is taking awhile, & then apply to cardstock. You should have a Antique Cracking Birdhouse!
REPEATING AN IMAGE – FADING OUT
This method will give the sense of depth or a sense of movement….depending on what stamp you use.
1. Ex: Tree – Ink tree up with a green ink pad. Stamp with it more than once before inking it up once again.
Ex: Bird – Ink bird up with a color of your choice. Stamp with it more than once, close together for a sense of movement.
Thoroughly apply ink to a rubber stamp. Stamp the stamping surface (do not use glossy paper!). Without lifting the stamp from the stamping surface, pull it in the opposite direction of the way the image should appear to be going. This streaking effect gives the illusion of motion.
1. On a previously stamped image, use the Two-Way Glue pen to apply glue where you want the glitter.
2. Sprinkle loose glitter on the image, pour off excess glitter, putting it back into the jar. This technique adds glitz to any card.
GLITTER & LACE BACKGROUND
For a basic card:
Cardstock * Sticker Paper * Lace * 1 Dark Shade of Glitter * 1 Light Shade of Glitter
1. Cut your sticker paper into 1/4 sheets. Pull the protective backing off the sticker paper to reveal the sticky area.
2. Stick a piece of lace to the sticker paper & smooth it down firmly.
3. Pour a dark shade of glitter all over the card, making sure the whole thing is covered. Shake off extra.
4. Strip lace off of card.
5. Next pour light shade of glitter all over card. It will stick to the areas that do not have the dark glitter. Shake off excess glitter.
6. Spray seal your glitter with hairspray.
7. Tack down onto folded cardstock or whatever your project may be.
Clear Window Sheet (1/4 size – postcard size)
Black Pigment Ink
Open Image – ex: Stained Glass set
Glue with small nozzle on end
1. Stamp image onto the window sheet with black pigment ink, heat set the ink!
2. Fill in an area in the image with glue & do one area at a time.
3. When area is filled with glue, put glitter on & dump off the excess glitter.
4. Continue to fill in each area.
5. When dry put the card together. The card should have an opening to create a window frame. Glitter side should be facing down.
1. Pour Dazzling Diamonds glitter onto a sheet of paper…spread it out a little.
2. Take a rubber stamp (bold outline, like Flutterbys) & stamp into the glitter.
3. Check to make sure stamp is evenly coated, tap if there is too much.
4. Heat your candle with hair dryer or heat tool until just warm.
5. Stamp directly onto the candle using even firm pressure. You might have to roll the candle a little to get the entire image on. Raise your stamp and admire!!
1. Using Liquid Appliqué, apply directly to stamped area where you want a 3-D look.
2. Apply heat, using a blow dryer or heat tool & watch the Liquid Appliqué rise, leaving a puffed look. *Heat immediately for an uneven puff look or wait until it is dry for an even puff look.
3. Draw your own flowers, words or accents with Liquid Appliqué.
LEATHER TEXTURE – SUEDE EFFECT
1. Squirt an ample amount of Liquid Appliqué onto wax paper. Roll rubber brayer over the appliqué so it evenly coats the brayer. Roll onto cardstock & cover evenly. Heat with a heat tool or blow dryer for a nice soft feel & look. **You can also sponge Liquid Appliqué onto stamps…. stamp on cardstock….heat image on card.
LIQUID APPLIQUÉ/With Cloud Stencil
1. Experiment mixing Liquid Appliqué colors on wax paper to get just the right texture.
2. Mix 1 drop of light blue into white Liquid Appliqué.
3. To create wispy clouds: place the cloud stencil at top of card.
4. Dip stamping sponge into Liquid Appliqué mix.
5. Brush away from cloud stencil.
6. Repeat, shift stencil…move around & down card. Heat with heat tool.
* Note: To make velveteen hillsides…mix green colors & do the same.
1. When using colored pencils start with lighter color first & work towards darker colors for shading.
2. Let colors overlap & blend in interesting shades. It is more effective to apply several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired intensity is reached, rather than one very heavy application.
3. Stray marks can be erased with an art eraser.
Use a skeleton leaf to make a pattern on your card. You may purchase leaves at a craft store or create your own by soaking them in a solution of 2 parts bleach to 1 part water.
1. The best time to bleach/skeletonize leaves is when they are green.
2. Sponge over the leaf with ink to make a copy of it on the card.
What you need:
Heavy White Cardstock (back of Glossy works fine) Pastels or Markers
Eggshell Crackle Medium from Folk Art Paint Brush or Sponge Brush
Basic Black Ink Pad Pigment Ink or Gel Stains
Paper Towels Sponge Daubers
1. Stamp image with Basic Black ink pad (must be waterproof ink). Let dry.
2. Color image with pastels or markers.
3. Brush the “first step” of Eggshell Crackle all over image. Let dry. Do another coat & let that dry.
4. Brush the “second step” of Eggshell Crackle. Let dry. Now you will see the crackle.
5. Take a pigment ink (one that will match a color used to color in your image). Use something dark or a brown gel stain….rub on then rub off.
6. Color will remain in the cracks & show off the crackle. You now have an old fashioned crackled Porcelain look.
(Remember when using the crackle 2-step mediums, to clean your brush between coats. This will ruin your brushes if you do not clean them.)
1. Lightly dust the area to be stamped with Static Magic (a little cloth bag filled with powder). This keeps the embossing powder off of any place you don’t want it.
2. Stamp with a Colorbox ink pad. *If you don’t like the image, simply wipe it away with a damp paper towel.
3. When you get an image you like, sprinkle it with embossing powder & heat it up. The key to glass is to KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING at all times. You don not want it to get too hot in one spot. It does take a bit longer to heat up then paper & takes patience. You want to let it cool before going on to the next spot. You may find it easier to work on 2 or more glass pieces at a time….while one is cooling, you could work on another one.
4. You can color in an image if you wish. Color it in with waterbased markers. This gives it a “stained glass” effect.
5. If you have colored in the image you will want to seal it with clear acrylic spray.
**Be sure glass is very clean (alcohol is good).
**Do not handle it too much. Oil from your hands can transfer to the glass.
** When using glass ball ornaments…..the frosted glass balls work the best
**Do not overheat or you risk burning yourself.
If you can’t find things that are pre frosted, you can do it yourself with Armor’s Etching cream (in crafts stores) or Etch-All (www.etchall.com). Follow etching instructions on the package…..please wear protective gloves when etching. Also work in a well-ventilated area. You may consider wearing a painters mask.
1. With a sponge brush apply white tacky glue to glass votive or other glass candle holder.
2. When tissue is in place, apply glue to entire glass piece.
3. Sprinkle Dazzling Diamonds glitter all over the glass & let dry.
4. Put a round piece of felt on the bottom. The candle light will really dazzle.
(You can use rainbow ink pads too..be sure to use a spray fixative or a fast drying adhesive)
GHOSTING – Resist without Embossing
Rubber Stamps * Ultrasmooth White Cardstock * Brayer * Embossing Ink * Single Color Dye-Based Ink Pad.
1. Find a stamp image of swirls, snowflakes, bold images or shadow like images, etc.)
2. Ink the stamp with embossing ink & stamp with it. Do this several times on the card.
3. Do not apply embossing powder or heat.
4. Ink the brayer with the single color dye-based ink pad, then roll it over the card. The embossing ink acts as a resist, the images will appear as more color is applied.
5. You can leave this as is or this can be stamped or embossed in a complementary or contrasting color.
GOLD ENCORE RESIST
1. Stamp a bold image with Encore Gold Metallic Ink onto white glossy cardstock.
2. Take a paper towel & rub all the gold off.
3. Take a brayer & roll it into a Kaleidacolor ink pad & roll onto the glossy paper.
The gold images show though the rainbow ink. It only works with the gold & not the other metallic inks.
RUBBER CEMENT RESIST
Rubber Cement * Soft Rubber Brayer * Stampin’ Write Markers or Kaleidacolor Pad * Sticker paper *
Glossy card stock * Rubber cement eraser
1. Brush rubber cement onto the center area of a card and allow it to dry.
2. Ink a rubber brayer with a multi-colored stamp pad or brush art markers, then roll the brayer over the card several times.
3. Once the ink has dried, rub the rubber cement off with a rubber cement pick-up eraser or your fingers.
The same technique can be used by first coloring the card with a multi-colored brayer, applying rubber cement as before, and then applying a layer of black ink or another solid color with the brayer. Remove the rubber cement for a dramatic look. In both cases, a pre-stamped cut-out image was then placed in the center area where the rubber cement had been removed.
1. Trim the wick of the sealing wax. Light & let drip into a puddle. Let it sit for about 5 seconds.
3. Ink up your small image in an embossing pad (metallics look great) & stamp into wax puddle.
4. Hold for about 3-5 seconds & lift straight up.
The ink keeps the stamp from sticking to the wax. Some people use oil but the ink adds a little color & pizzazz.
MELTED CRAYON BACKGROUND
1. Take bits of crayons & place on paper or fabric
2. Cover with waxed paper.
3. Cover with another sheet of paper & a thin cotton cloth.
4. Using an iron, set to medium heat, slowly melt the bits of crayon by moving the iron in circular motions around the cloth.
5. When you think the crayon bits have been melted, carefully lift the cloth & top sheet of paper to examine. If not melted completely, recover & iron again. If using on fabric..muslin is perfect & light enough to tack onto a card. Do the above directions. Stamp onto the crayon melted fabric with Black Fabrico
Ink Pad..a bold lined open image works great (like flower, Christmas tree, etc.), heat set. Use crayon colors that would look good for the image you plan
on using. Cut out a square around the image & tack down onto the front of your card.
COMPUTER IRON-ON TRANSFER
*Suggestion – do not do this on canvas, it really doesn’t work too well. Remember transfer paper isn’t cheap but you can do a lot with just one sheet of 8
1/2 by 11.
100% Cotton Fabric * Basic Black Ink Pad * Scissors * Computer Iron-on Transfer Paper * Iron * Markers – regular waterbased markers
1. Wash the fabric without fabric softener. Iron out any wrinkles if any.
2. Stamp your image(s) with the black ink pad on to the transfer paper. Color in the image(s) with markers. Shade with deeper colors in the same color family if you want to.
3. Cut close to the image leaving about 1/4 ” around it & a little tag (as a finger grip). Fold the tag back to the backside of the image.
4. Place the image upside down onto fabric & iron in a circular motion….counting to 10. Lift off the iron, pull up on the little tag that you’ve folded back. Pull up the entire backing of the image. You have now transferred your image onto the fabric.
**Note: If you hold the iron too long onto the fabric, the backing will stick to the fabric & not come off. Also if you don’t hold it down long enough, the image will peel off.
VELVET STAMPING – EMBOSSED VELVET
Velvet (acetate/rayon) Dry Iron
Squirt Bottle with Water
Stamps (bold works best)
1. Set your iron on the “wool setting’ (usually the hottest setting).
2. Lightly spray the back side of your velvet with water.
3. Place your stamp face up on your work surface.
4. Place the velvet, right side down on top of your stamp & hold of approximately 30-45 seconds.
5. Presto….you’re image is complete.
* Bold stamps work best.
* Make sure the velvet is made of acetate/rayon or silk – NOT COTTON/POLYESTER.
* Some irons have steam holes on the bottom of the iron. So it may be necessary to reposition your iron so that the holes are not directly over your larger stamps.
* It is necessary to cut around your stamp images close to the image so that the iron doesn’t pick up the edges of the rubber.
* Let your stamp cool down before stamping with it again.
Light Colored Velvet (acetate/rayon or silk)
Big, Bold Definitely Decorative Stamps * Stampin’ Write Markers * Iron
1. Color your stamps with the Stampin’ Write markers.
2. Lay the stamps on a table with the colored rubber side facing up.
3. Carefully place the velvet over the stamps.
4. Place the hot iron on top of the stamped area & hold for 30 seconds.
This technique is for cards & decorative purposes, not for wearables. The markers are not colorfast.
You can use color on dark velvets, too! It is recommended that you use Colorbox Metallic Ink Pads.
To not get a print from the seam holes in an iron, use the back part of the iron where there are no holes.
You may also use a Teflon pressing cloth or just move the iron the entire time.
AIR ART GUN
There are a number of uses for this little gadget. Use it in place of a speckle stamp….use it after using stencils like Dots & Stripes….great for backgrounds. Use with markers or Zig Painty Pens.
AIR ART GUN/THUMPING
1. Ink your bold stamp up with a light colored ink pad.
2. Spritz a darker color on the image with the air gun.
3. Repeat with other colors if you wish.
(ex: DD Fruits – ink pear stamp with yellowish color & then spray the pear with a darker green color.)
1. Spray a piece of cardstock with water from a mister.
2. Use the air gun to spray several colors from your markers all over the paper. This blends the colors into each other for a pretty background.
1. Instead of huffing your image before stamping, spray a very fine mist of water (a little spritz will do from about 12″ away) over your stamp, then stamp image on cardstock.
This will give it a somewhat muted watercolor effect. You can spray a few times, the ink lasts longer than you would expect. The image will continue to get lighter, but combined with the original “bright” stamped image, it adds depth to your project. (Variation: Some people mist the paper & not the stamp. If there is too much water..lightly mop up with a paper towel.)
= Watercolor with markers, ink pads, watercolor paints, watercolor pencils or even acrylic paints. Use a wet watercolor paint brush or blender pen.
1. Markers: Make a palette with markers & pick up color with a paint brush or blender pen.
2. Ink Pads: From the lid of an ink pad…pick up color with a paint brush or blender pen.
3. Watercolor Paints: Pick up color with a paint brush.
4. Watercolor Pencils: Color in an area of a stamped image. Take a damp paint brush or blender pen to draw the color out. For cards or other craft projects you may water down acrylic paint & paint it with it. You can even do the same with Fabrico & Encore Ink Refills.
Allow for soft graduated shading and professional looking blending effects. Embossed designs look beautiful when shaded with colored pencils. Watercolor pencils are more versatile than regular colored pencils. You have the option of creating colored pencil effects. Colored pencils can be used only for coloring in an already stamped design. They cannot be used directly on your stamps.
Applying & Blending Watercolor Pencils
When using colored pencils start with lighter colors first and work to the darker. Let the colors overlap and blend for interesting shades It is more effective to apply several light coats of pencil shadings, adding more until the desired intensity is reached, rather than one very heavy application. Stray marks can be erased with an art eraser.
Creating Watercolor Effects (optional)
Once the coloring is completed, you can stop here, or achieve different effects by adding water. Color your image with dry pencils, blending and shading as
desired. Dampen a paintbrush with water and paint over colored areas. A barely damp brush gives brighter color, with pencil lines showing. Adding more water will blend the colors more smoothly. The more water you add, the less intense your colors will be. But adding excessive amounts of water will cause the colors to run together, and the paper to buckle.
Blend the colors instead by stroking with a blender pen, eliminating the need for brush or water. You will find that this is a great use of the blender pen!
Watercolor pencils give you professional looking results with the benefits of ease in use, lots of pigment, reasonable price, and the use of a fine point for
coloring small areas.
1. Use with a palette: rub a pencil tip on a piece of paper, building up pigment. Use a damp brush or blender pen to pick up pigment and add to your art. This is a great way to mix colors.
2. For bright bold colors, take the pigment directly from your pencil tip. Dip your brush in water and press to the tip of the pencil. This will give you undiluted pigment for strong colors.
3. A thick opaque look can be achieved by dipping the pencil tip in water and applying the color wet.
4. Dry use of watercolor pencils to color stamped images on dark paper or on velour paper gives beautiful results.
1. Emboss an image using metallic embossing powder (this sets off the Encore watercolor shimmer).
2. In a palette use a drop of Encore refill & add a little water.
3. Apply to image with a lightly wet paint brush.
PIGMENT INK WATERCOLORING
Make a palette with pigment ink refills or simply take a lightly wet paint brush & apply it to the ink pad.
You’re ready to paint! This includes Colorbox & Fabrico inks.
1. Place a die-cut shape down onto cardstock – use the 2-way glue pen on the back of the die-cut & let it dry before placing the die-cut down….this will make it repositionable (like post-it notes glue).
2. Use the air gun & spritz colors around the images….when done lift the die-cuts off & you now have fancy silhouettes of the shapes.
3. Instead of using the air gun you can also use the stamping sponge around the shape. Use a single shape on a card or several on a full sheet for a memory page.
CHALKING – PASTELS
The best choices for papers & cardstocks are smooth, & uncoated. Chalk can also be applied to wood, paperclay, paper mache & other porous surfaces. If there are any mistakes to fix….use a small white or art gum eraser. To prevent smears you will want to seal the chalk. You can use matte spray fixative or hair spray (aerosol).
May be used wet or dry. Blue, Grey or Black are good color choices for shadows. Layer colors. Start with the lighter color & apply a deeper color of the same tone on top of the lighter shades.
Chalk will stick to embossing powders, especially white. For best results start by stamping on dark colored cardstock in the frost white Colorbox & embossing in any of our white embossing powders. Apply the chalk to the white areas of your stamped image. After chalking rub with a eraser to get rid of the powdery look & make the image shine.
Using the white Liquid Appliqué, embellish the details of your work. Allow it to dry before puffing it up with a heat tool & then apply chalk to it. It picks up the color & holds. Chalked Sponging:
Using sponges & chalks with your stencils will give you beautiful soft clouds, muted dots & stripes & gently blended backgrounds.
Stamp a solid image in white pigment ink on a dark cardstock. Let it dry & then color lightly with chalks.
This method works best with bold images. Example: DD Grapes – Stamp the leaves in green & the grapes in purple. Apply the same shades to chalk over the images. This will give it a soft airbrushed feel to them.
Marbled Chalk Background:
Put about an inch of water into a pan slightly bigger than your card,. With a knife, scrape chalk dust off a few colors onto the surface of the water. Lower the paper flat onto the surface of the water to pick up the color, immediately lifting the cardstock back out of the water. Allow the cardstock dry flat. If your paper develops puckers, it can be ironed to flatten it back out. You can even press the paper between heavy books to flatten it out.
Marbled Chalk Background 2:
Chalk and water can be combined for a pastel background effect. Apply chalk in one or more colors randomly to the paper. Using a wet rag or sponge, pull and blend the chalked areas as desired. This technique is an excellent way to add color to freezer paper that will be used for gift wrap or gift bags. Once the background is dry, it can be stamped over, and it does not require spray fixative to remain in place.
Chalk on Dark Paper:
Create stunning designs. Stamp a design using white pigment ink & white embossing powder. Apply chalk with a cotton swab around & in images. Take a paper towel to wipe off excess chalk.
Chalk colors can be beautifully blended with the blender pen, which also “sets” the chalk, eliminating the need for spray fixative.
Finishing Your Chalked Project: If desired, use a spray fixative or hairspray when finished to keep chalk from smearing. This will also deepen the colors and add sheen. You need only a light coating.